New York: Designer Jason Wu debuts his latest collection via lookbook, stepping away from runway traditions. The collection honours past inspirations while embracing a relaxed aesthetic, featuring standout pieces that blend elegance with the imperfection of life, and pays tribute to influential fashion figures.
Jason Wu has unveiled his Fall/Winter 2025-2026 collection through a lookbook, marking a notable shift from his long-standing tradition of runway shows that began in 2006. This decision reflects Wu’s desire to allocate more time to his family while engaging in a creative exploration of both his past and the future direction of his brand. The resulting collection weaves together elements from Wu’s previous works with contemporary design, offering a fresh lens through which to view his artistic evolution.
A significant aspect of the collection is its homage to the late fashion designer Madame Grès, particularly through a reimagined dress from Wu’s 2008 Fall collection. This iconic garment has been transformed using jacquard fabric while maintaining key design elements from its original iteration. Wu’s passion for the intricacies of garment construction is evident in standout pieces such as an opening red strapless dress. This dress features an asymmetric hem, raw edges, exposed darts, and “mille-feuille seams,” showcasing Wu’s exceptional craftsmanship. Another highlight is a wrinkled red satin gown, embellished with prints inspired by a photograph of unfurling fabric, reinforcing a narrative of transformation and rebirth.
In this season’s collection, Wu has shifted his focus from the pursuit of an unattainable ideal of perfection to a more relaxed aesthetic. His designs convey a sense of ease, with notable examples including a mohair dress paired with a transparent drawstring blazer that allows for a glimpse of the garment’s careful construction. The collection also presents darker, moody pieces, such as an all-black ensemble that evokes a “Tim Burton” atmosphere and a striking glen-plaid coat manifesting a circular hem. These contrasting elements create a dynamic interplay between gothic allure and refined elegance, enhancing the overall narrative of the line.
Furthermore, Wu pays tribute to the influential designers who have shaped his artistic vision. The collection features photo prints that evoke the style of Jean Paul Gaultier and surrealist elements akin to Salvador Dalí’s renowned tear motifs associated with Schiaparelli. The finale garment—a gown with an exposed back and horsehair petticoats—resonates with the design philosophy of Vionnet, underscoring Wu’s adeptness at honouring fashion history while forging a path for innovation.
Ultimately, this collection, characterised by raw edges and deconstructed silhouettes, encapsulates the imperfections of life while celebrating the ongoing quest for beauty. Jason Wu’s Fall/Winter 2025-2026 showcase stands as a testament to the quiet strength and confidence that underpins his brand, offering creations that embody a unique blend of timelessness and modernity, elegance and unrefinement, all beautifully imperfect.
Source: Noah Wire Services
