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Berlin: At Berlin Fashion Week, MARKE unveiled its Fall/Winter 2025/26 collection, ‘Everything That Stays Is Love,’ blending nostalgia with sustainability. Designer Mario Keine drew inspiration from literary figures, presenting a visually and emotionally rich narrative across three acts, while embracing responsible fashion practices.

During Berlin Fashion Week, MARKE presented its innovative Fall/Winter 2025/26 collection, entitled “Everything That Stays Is Love.” The show paid homage to themes of nostalgia and yearning, capturing a fascinating intersection of daydreams and reality. Mario Keine, the designer behind MARKE, has drawn comparisons to legendary figures in fashion, with observers noting that his work embodies qualities reminiscent of both Jil Sander and Karl Lagerfeld.

The collection’s inspiration intertwined literary and historical influences, prominently featuring figures such as Miss Havisham from Charles Dickens’ Great Expectations and Stephen Tennant, a member of the Bright Young Things. It was structured in three distinct acts, each reflecting different emotional phases of a hypothetical individual’s life. The first act exuded the vibrancy of youth, marked by fluid shapes, soft draping, and intricate embellishments, offering a palette that included shades of sand, champagne, and olive.

The mood shifted dramatically in the second act, which delved into deeper themes of grief and self-reflection. Here, the collection adopted darker tones, with black and muted shades dominating the designs. This segment included tailored garments made from luxurious wool-silk blends, symbolising protection from an emotional storm. The final act starkly conveyed a sense of collapse, employing oversized designs and raw-edged details that suggested decay, echoing a narrative of emotional disintegration.

Sustainability was a cornerstone of the collection, as MARKE utilised materials sourced from deadstock, highlighting the brand’s commitment to responsible fashion. Mario Keine articulated this vision in an interview, stating that “Sustainability is the ground pillar of all developments of MARKE,” and noted the significance of utilising high-quality, overstock fabrics from Italy. He also elaborated on the meticulous craftsmanship involved in the creation of the pieces, which are produced in Germany and Poland to reduce environmental impact.

The title of the collection, “Everything That Stays Is Love,” emerged from a poignant radio interview that resonated with Keine. He recounted how the conversation highlighted the fragility of artistry and the enduring spirit that survives in the face of decline, stating, “But you see? The spirit was there again!”

The three acts of the collection each narrate a vivid storyline: The first depicts youthful love, the second portrays a reclusive existence dominated by memories, and the last signifies an emotional breakdown. The shift in silhouettes—from fluid and vibrant to tailored and then to raw edges—mirrored the emotional transitions captured in the narrative.

Reflecting further on his influences, Keine explained the importance of characters like Miss Havisham and Tennant, describing them as permanent fixtures in his creative process. He stated, “These two are somehow always there for me in my creative process,” emphasising how their uniqueness informs his artistic vision.

The backdrop of Berlin Fashion Week serves as a vital platform for emerging talent, and MARKE’s participation has positioned it at the forefront of the spotlight. Keine observed that compared to other fashion capitals, Berlin provides a more nurturing environment for new designers, allowing their work to be appreciated without overshadowing forces from bigger names.

Despite the challenges faced, including the necessity for funding and recognition in a highly competitive industry, Keine remains focused on crafting a unique and intimate brand experience. He acknowledged that his aesthetics—rooted in historical references rather than contemporary edginess—may challenge the audience but ultimately foster deeper connections with the collection.

With ambitions for future growth, Keine is actively planning for increased visibility at the upcoming Paris Fashion Week and the establishment of a stronger physical presence through trunk shows and community events. He expressed a desire to engage more deeply with audiences, enchanting them with the narratives embedded within each piece and inviting them into the world of MARKE through collaborative dialogues.

As Berlin Fashion Week continues to draw attention to fresh voices in the fashion industry, MARKE’s latest collection stands out as a heartfelt and imaginative exploration of timeless themes, shaping its identity in a competitive landscape while remaining firmly grounded in sustainability.

Source: Noah Wire Services