British Nigerian designer Tolu Coker’s new collection ‘Ori’ explores themes of identity and culture through fashion, showcasing sustainability and heritage.
British Nigerian designer Tolu Coker recently unveiled her fall 2025 collection during a studio presentation that echoed the themes of identity and culture, in light of her recent nomination for the prestigious LVMH Prize. The collection, titled “Ori,” draws upon the philosophical concept of self as understood in the Niger-Congo language of Yoruba.
Coker’s designs are inspired by the rich tapestry of Yoruba spirituality and examine the evolution of dress codes within the African diaspora over generations of migration. Her work challenges viewers to consider how garments can serve as vessels for legacy, memory, and identity, prompting deeper engagement with each piece.
The collection features a blend of traditional and modern elements, reflecting Coker’s commitment to cultural heritage while incorporating contemporary styles. Standout pieces include a pleated skater skirt, a corset shirt, a blazer dress, and a striking yellow check coat. The designer’s vision prominently showcases flowing white garments reminiscent of the Aladura churches in Lagos, as well as ceremonial dresses from South America and ritual attire from Black traditions in Louisiana and Haiti—each element carefully integrated with British sartorial codes.
“Clothes are not simply garments. They are archives of memory, carriers of culture, and markers of identity,” Coker stated in an interview. She emphasized that “to wear is to honor the past, embrace the present and shape the future,” reflecting her overarching philosophy towards fashion.
Sustainability remains a cornerstone of Coker’s brand ethos, with several pieces crafted from deadstock wools and gaberdines, as well as hand-dyed upcycled fabrics, reclaimed satins, reworked denim, and eco-leathers. The collection was further complemented by footwear from Manolo Blahnik and hats supplied by Virna Pasquinelli, contributing to an overall aesthetic that Coker describes as empowering, polished, and worldly.
Through this thoughtful presentation, Coker not only showcased her creativity and craftsmanship but also reinforced a dialogue about representation, culture, and environmental consciousness in the world of fashion.
Source: Noah Wire Services
