The iconic Italian fashion label Les Copains, known for its knitwear, is reintroduced during Milan Fashion Week following its acquisition by OVS.
The Italian fashion label Les Copains, originally established in 1958 by entrepreneur Mario Bandiera, is set to make a significant return during the Milan Fashion Week. The brand, known for its signature knitwear and striped sweaters that enjoyed popularity from the 1970s to the 1990s, will hold a presentation on Tuesday to mark its reintroduction into the market, coinciding with the launch of its products in 500 OVS stores across Italy.
OVS, a prominent retail chain, acquired Les Copains in 2022 following the brand’s financial difficulties, which culminated in the bankruptcy of its previous owner, Super Srl. OVS secured the brand through an auction at a price of 1.4 million euros, acquiring solely the brand name without additional assets. The acquisition was part of a strategic move to revitalize a struggling label, as OVS CEO Stefano Beraldo explained, “the deal was sparked by the will to save a brand that was in a difficult position.”
Since its acquisition, OVS has shifted its business model from merely being a retail banner to acting as a container for various brands. This change is reflected in OVS’s collaborations with different designers, including efforts with the late Elio Fiorucci for the Baby Angel brand and partnerships with Davide De Giglio. The successful launch of the Piombo brand in 2018—targeting men’s fashion—foreshadowed the reimagining of Les Copains, as Beraldo noted the potential for the brand to regain its identity and appeal.
Under the creative direction of Massimo Piombo, who is also the creative director of OVS, the design team has crafted a modern collection that emphasizes femininity and elegance while drawing from the brand’s historical essence. The new offerings feature a range of clothing items that incorporate French influences reminiscent of a bohemian chic aesthetic, including embroidered tops, full skirts, and denim looks with vintage flair.
The Les Copains ad campaign, photographed by Scott Schuman of “The Sartorialist,” showcases a contemporary portrayal of the collection, featuring women engaging in everyday activities around Milan. The visual narrative aims to highlight the versatility of the new collection, which contrasts with the bolder hues associated with the Piombo line by utilizing a more subdued, neutral color palette.
Reflecting on the pricing strategy, Beraldo indicated that the Les Copains collection will be positioned with an average price 30 percent higher than the Piombo line to account for higher-quality materials and increased attention to design details. This collection is being introduced at a key moment as OVS continues to strengthen its product offerings while also expanding its presence in the womenswear segment, which has surged in profitability.
In parallel to the Les Copains relaunch, OVS has seen positive financial results, with net sales reported at 1.53 billion euros and projected growth for 2024. Beraldo emphasized the importance of diversified product development, stating, “for the fourth year in a row, sales for the womenswear segment continued to grow,” underpinned by strategic investments in product quality and store aesthetics.
Moreover, OVS is eyeing international expansion for Les Copains, with Beraldo noting the brand’s recognition and quality, particularly within the Asian market. He referenced the company’s successful ventures in China and South Korea, hinting at the potential for Les Copains to similarly thrive abroad.
The brand’s revitalization underscores OVS’s commitment to adapting to market trends while tapping into its historical roots, positioning itself effectively within the evolving landscape of Italian fashion.
Source: Noah Wire Services
