Ryota Iwai’s clothing label Auralee, founded in 2015, emphasizes high-quality fabrics and timeless designs over ostentatious styles, marking significant growth in the competitive fashion industry.
Ryota Iwai, the 41-year-old Japanese designer, founded his clothing label Auralee in 2015 with the intention of creating garments that stand out for their quality rather than flashy designs. Speaking to the Financial Times, Iwai shared his initial vision: “My idea was to make customers notice the distinctiveness of our clothes just by looking at the sleeves on the hanging racks among scores of other brands in select stores.” The brand, known for its custom-made fabrics, understated colors, and refined silhouettes, has garnered a loyal following. “I aim to make clothes that are not ostentatious, not about making a statement, but clothes that allow the wearer to be true to oneself,” Iwai adds.
Earlier this year, Auralee made its debut on the Paris Fashion Week menswear schedule, showcasing its Autumn/Winter 2025 collection. The collection features a blend of “long-time favorites,” including moleskin-cashmere suits, luxurious silk anoraks, and stylish knitwear designed for both men and women. Following the show, Auralee received 35 offers from various new retailers, marking a significant step in its expansion. Collaborations with brands like New Balance and Danish homeware label Tekla have bolstered its presence in Europe. The label is now available in 200 global outlets, including high-end retailers Mr Porter and Mytheresa, and has recorded a revenue increase of 20 percent annually, reaching approximately ¥3.6 billion (around £19 million) in 2024.
At Auralee’s Tokyo headquarters, Iwai explained the emphasis he places on custom fabrics, which comprise a significant portion of the brand’s budget. His dedication to the production process is reflected in his visits to herders in Mongolia and New Zealand, as well as Japanese mills in Aichi, Shizuoka, Niigata, and Yamagata prefectures, where he carefully evaluates yarn characteristics to create original fabric blends. Popular items from Auralee include a cashmere wool soutien-collar coat priced at £1,305 and its signature Hard Twist denim jeans at £335.
Auralee is particularly noted for its sophisticated color palettes. Iwai elaborates on the unique dyeing process used for their garments, explaining that fibers are dyed in multiple colors before being spun into yarn, resulting in tonal variations. Despite the higher manufacturing costs, Auralee maintains competitive pricing in the contemporary luxury market, akin to brands like Lemaire and Toteme. Iwai states, “We want our clothes to be affordable.”
Iwai’s passion for fashion began at a young age, inspired by his older brother’s introduction to vintage clothing. He developed a keen interest in historical styles while working part-time at a vintage store during his studies at Kinki University in Osaka. His formal fashion education at Bunka Fashion College in Tokyo laid the groundwork for his career, further enhanced by his early experiences producing bespoke garments.
The designer’s meticulous nature is evident in his work; he often spends hours refining samples and seeks input from his young staff. While the team typically concludes their day by 8 PM, Iwai often remains late, contemplatively considering improvements for future designs. He balances his work with personal rituals, such as his 20-minute bike ride from his home near Yoyogi Park to the office, which he appreciates as a way to connect with the changing seasons of the city.
Charlotte Collet, a stylist who has collaborated with Auralee since the Autumn/Winter 2019 season, emphasizes the quality of the brand’s offerings, describing them as “clothes that are amazingly made with sumptuous materials and colours.” Industry insiders note that Iwai’s collections consistently bring fresh perspectives with new fabrics and a unique color palette. Daniel Todd, the buying director of Mr Porter, states that Auralee’s pieces “are always a point of discovery,” making them integral for customers looking to enhance their wardrobes.
Despite the increasing recognition and success, Iwai remains focused on craftsmanship rather than rapid growth. He mentions that setting annual sales targets is not a priority for him, asserting, “It is important to focus on making good clothes with people with whom I have built trust.” His commitment to maintaining quality over quantity is central to Auralee’s philosophy, as he strives for consistent improvement in his designs.
Source: Noah Wire Services
