Adrian Appiolaza, Moschino’s new creative director, breathes life into the brand’s storied past while infusing it with innovative designs and a deep respect for its heritage.
In a vibrant exploration of fashion history and creativity, Adrian Appiolaza, the newly appointed creative director of Moschino, is bringing a fresh vision to the iconic Italian brand. Upon entering the Moschino offices located near Milan’s stazione centrale, visitors are met with an eye-catching headless Greek statue reminiscent of the Venus de Milo, draped in black stockings—a design element that nods to a memorable late-’80s advertising campaign. Appiolaza introduced this piece to the building’s entrance shortly after taking the helm in January 2024 and incorporated the vintage campaign image into his inaugural show.
Inside the expansive and brightly lit studio, Appiolaza curates a collection of around 40 pieces from the 1980s and 1990s that serve as a wellspring of inspiration for his latest designs. Among these treasures are a vibrant yellow leather jacket from 1992, a shirt featuring an archangel Gabriel playfully exclaiming “Yo, Mary!” in Neapolitan dialect from 1994, a whimsical jacket embroidered with a childlike drawing by the late founder Franco Moschino from 1993, and a papal hat from 1994. Each item is displayed in a manner that revitalizes their essence, making the past seem fresh and relevant.
Expressing his admiration for the unique blend of artistry and irony ingrained in Moschino’s legacy, Appiolaza states, “I’m obsessed with religious attire.” He recounts his formative years spent in Buenos Aires attending church every Sunday with his grandmother, noting a particular fascination with the outfits worn by nuns and priests rather than the religious ceremonies themselves. His love for the brand’s heritage is palpable, as he acknowledges the provocative and satirical symbols that Moschino is known for, highlighting themes of political commentary, humor, and artistic chaos, reminiscent of the sentiments expressed by Franco: “Non c’è creatività senza caos” (There is no creativity without chaos). Appiolaza reflects on his endeavor to re-envision this sense of chaos through his own creative lens.
In a quest for authentic inspiration, Appiolaza immersed himself in Moschino’s extensive archive, which spans from the brand’s inception in 1983 to the present. Initially anticipating a more limited selection, he was surprised to discover a comprehensive inventory of garments. “I was expecting to find three blouses and four dresses…but there’s everything,” he remarked. This journey into the archives has allowed Appiolaza to establish a profound connection to Franco Moschino’s forward-thinking sensibilities, which have significantly influenced his approach to contemporary fashion. He recognizes Franco’s talent for juxtaposing various references and ideas, identifying a kindred spirit in the late designer’s avant-garde vision.
Franco Moschino, renowned for his unorthodox and provocative displays in the fashion world, remains an enduring cultural figure since his era in the 1980s. He famously disrupted norms by inviting guests to fashion shows with playful invitations of underwear, swapped traditional buttons for pinwheels, and adorned suits with cutlery. His campaigns often included self-portraits in disguise and offered a critical perspective on the economic boom of Italy under Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi, making his work both a spectacle and a thought-provoking commentary on capitalism.
As Appiolaza leads Moschino into a new chapter, his interpretation of Franco’s legacy intertwines historical reverence with innovative creativity, marking a significant moment for the brand’s future.
Source: Noah Wire Services
