Valentino’s creative director Alessandro Michele unveils a collection that merges historical style with modern fashion, featuring the revived opera pump.
Alessandro Michele, the creative director for Valentino, has introduced a blend of historical elegance and contemporary fashion in his upcoming spring 2025 Pavillon des Folies collection. Known for his distinctive gender-fluid and bohemian aesthetic, Michele has intricately woven elements of men’s evening wear into his latest designs. A focal point of this collection is the revival of the opera pump, a footwear style that has its origins in the Regency era. These shoes, also referred to as court shoes, are marked by a low heel, a grosgrain bow, and a higher vamp compared to ballet flats, crafted to accentuate luxurious socks.
Historically, opera pumps became the footwear of choice for gentlemen attending the opera during the Victorian era and have been donned by renowned figures such as Marlene Dietrich, Frank Sinatra, and Colman Domingo. Michele’s iteration of this classic style, named the Bowow ballerina, is part of a rising trend with various designers releasing their interpretations of the opera pump.
Brands like Bode have embraced the style, offering versions in both patent and napa leather that cater to both men and women. The New York fashion scene sees Thom Browne and Suzanne Rae adding their takes for women, while Manolo Blahnik contributes a velvet option for men. Traditionally, opera pumps have been the domain of established shoemakers, such as Arthur Sleep in London, making it challenging to find them in women’s sizes.
While the silhouette of the opera pump has remained consistent over the years, there are subtle contemporary revisions, including Valentino’s unique cutaway detail near the bow. The styling of these shoes has evolved, with creative personalities like Domingo recently pairing them with intricate evening vests, tailored trousers, and pointelle socks, showcasing a blend of classic and modern fashion sensibilities. The evolving presence of the opera pump in today’s fashion landscape underlines a renewed interest in historical pieces, reimagined for contemporary tastes.
Source: Noah Wire Services
