London: Alessandro Michele begins a new chapter as creative director of Valentino, unveiling his inaugural 2025 Resort Collection. Emphasising brand heritage and personal style, Michele’s designs introduce a harmonious blend of tradition and innovation, reshaping the women’s fashion landscape while celebrating craftsmanship.
Alessandro Michele is embarking on a new chapter as the creative director of the historic Italian fashion house Valentino, having previously held a similar role at Gucci for approximately seven years. His debut collection for Valentino, the 2025 Resort Collection, is a testament to his renowned design philosophy which reverently incorporates brand heritage.
Michele assumed the directorship at Valentino in March 2024, following his departure from Gucci in November 2022. The 2025 Resort Collection stands as a showcase of Michele’s signature style, which imbues the collection with a strong folkloric essence. Yet, some observers have noted that elements of this collection bear resemblance to designs from his Gucci days, suggesting a blend of familiarity and innovation.
Reflecting on the challenges faced by fashion directors, the pressure to blend personal creativity with a brand’s legacy can be overwhelming. “If a designer’s worldview is too strong, they face criticism for needing to work with a signature brand,” noted a commentary by AFFECTUS, underlining how crucial it is for directors like Michele to strike a balance. The stakes are high; unsatisfactory performance in terms of brand evaluation and sales can often result in a short tenure for creative heads.
Michele’s early work at Gucci is marked by vibrant colours and eclectic patterns, a style that diverged distinctly from the classic aesthetics dominant in the inaugural collection at Valentino, which featured simpler silhouettes and materials such as traditional fabrics and subdued colour palettes. In contrast to his previous work, the 2025 Resort Collection presents a softer ambiance, spotlighting garments that respect Valentino’s commitment to haute couture while breathing his own individuality into the mix.
The Italian maison Valentino was founded by Valentino Garavani, who established a legacy of Italian couture craftsmanship. Michele’s designs echo this heritage, as he incorporates techniques and materials that celebrate the brand’s history. He has drawn from Valentino’s archives, regarding them as “a wonderful treasure,” a sentiment he expressed while highlighting the importance of honouring Garavani’s elegance in his work.
Dresses play a significant role in the Valentino identity, aimed at celebrating femininity and elegance. The 2025 Resort Collection features A-line silhouettes reminiscent of the 1960s and 1970s, harmoniously blending traditional techniques with Michele’s contemporary vision. In showcasing this collection, Michele aims to present a refined elegance, further evidenced by the incorporation of luxurious craftsmanship throughout the garments.
As he transitions from the bold and theatrical expressions of his Gucci tenure to a more understated elegance at Valentino, Michele’s approach continues to be rooted in a respect for craftsmanship and heritage. His collections, while evolving in style, maintain an underlying commitment to the artistry of fashion, setting a course for what could be a defining era for Valentino as the brand embraces new expressiveness while retaining its iconic identity.
With the fashion landscape evolving, particularly in relation to technology like AI, Michele’s work at Valentino represents a crucial exploration of value systems within contemporary fashion. The need for garments that honour artisanal craftsmanship signifies an ongoing conversation in a digitally dominated age. Maintaining a dual focus on tradition and innovation, Michele’s trajectory at Valentino will be closely scrutinised as he seeks to redefine both his vision and the brand’s future in the realm of haute couture.
Source: Noah Wire Services
