Designers Benjamin Barron and Bror August Vestbø unveil their debut fall collection, ‘Downtown Girl,’ showcasing innovative layered designs and a playful take on fashion narratives.
Designers Benjamin Barron and Bror August Vestbø, finalists for the LVMH Prize, are making waves in the fashion industry with their innovative approach at their brand, All-In. Recently, they published a folio showcasing backstage looks from their spring show, “Uptown Girl,” which draws inspiration from the 1988 film of the same name. Following this release, the duo shifted their focus to their debut fall collection, aptly titled “Downtown Girl,” characterized by a more muted color palette reflecting the somber tones of autumn.
The unveiling took place in a newly established, light-flooded workspace, where the designers conducted a walkthrough of this collection. Barron and Vestbø have embraced multitasking in their approach to design; the final look of their fall line captivated audiences with an ’80s-inspired ensemble featuring intricate ruffles, delicate lace insets, and a striking pussy-cat bow, all paired with bold studded black leather thigh-high boots. This look exemplifies the brand’s established identity within the “cool-girl” footwear market, specifically highlighting their signature “Level” style.
Contrasting the more extravagant final look, the collection opens with a distinctive pullover that ingeniously presents as three layers, showcasing their ability to craft multilayered designs that are accessible yet stylish. For those looking for something bolder, the collection introduces its first outerwear piece: a triple parka in army green adorned with fur trim. Familiar elements from previous collections remain, including twisted, upcycled T-shirt tops suspended from strands of gum-ball-sized pearls, alongside playful takes on fall favorites, such as the peplum trend, expressed through a tulle-lined mini layered over pants.
Notably, the collection features what Barron and Vestbø have termed “display” pieces, such as a skirt that appears to be layered over another skirt, and a standout look featuring a triple shirt seemingly magnetized to the model. While the technique has been employed by other designers, including Olivier Theyskens and Jean Paul Gaultier, Barron and Vestbø have infused it with their own unique perspective on personal expression through fashion.
The concept of layered designs extends beyond mere aesthetics; it visually embodies All-In’s multimedia narrative. Barron initially launched All-In as a magazine in 2015 before joining forces with Vestbø in 2019 to initiate their foray into fashion and accessories through a collaboration with Maryam Nassir Zadeh, which brought their upcycled fantasy shoes into production. Lotta Volkova, a stylist and client of the brand, modeled during their spring 2022 presentation, further integrating the brand’s narrative into its visual storytelling.
The characters within All-In collections play a pivotal role in their storytelling, with the spring 2024 collection centering on a fictional pop singer named Allina—a clever nod to the brand’s name. Collaborating with the Norwegian electronic duo Smerz, the designers released music under the “Allina” EP title, creatively blurring the lines between fashion and music.
Furthermore, the fall collection also features some designs on a hyper-masculine male model, reflecting Barron and Vestbø’s interest in making their clothes accessible and appealing to a wider demographic. Their work demonstrates a playful yet meaningful approach, positioning All-In as a small, yet influential independent brand navigating new paths in the complex world of fashion.
Source: Noah Wire Services
