Fashion designer Andrea Mary Marshall introduces her latest collection, ‘Elizabeth,’ reflecting a modern interpretation of the iconic English monarch through luxurious designs and historical homage.
Fashion designer Andrea Mary Marshall has unveiled her latest collection for fall 2025, titled “Elizabeth,” showcasing a unique interpretation of the iconic English monarch. This new offering reflects a significant evolution from her prior spring collection, allowing Marshall to explore deeper creative avenues.
Marshall, who graduated from Parsons, has built her career at the intersection of fine art and fashion, particularly honing her skills in self-portraiture while working various roles in the fashion industry. In a preview discussing her journey, she shared, “They were the kind of jobs that I didn’t have to get too attached to, I could just check in and check out. I’d cry in the bathroom all day and then I’d go home and do my art. But I have this weird extensive production knowledge because of that.” Her experiences culminated in the 2021 launch of her brand, Salon 1884, in partnership with Neiman Marcus. The brand’s name is a nod to John Singer Sargent’s “Portrait of Madame X,” which first attracted attention at an 1884 exhibition.
Salon 1884 is characterized by high-quality tailoring, luxurious fabrics, and sophisticated silhouettes, often incorporating themes of a minimalist yet strong personal style. However, Marshall reflected on her need to explore further, stating, “it’s what I would wear, but it is not what comes out of me.” This realization prompted her to delve into the fundamentals of fashion design, particularly pattern-making, which she credits with fundamentally changing her approach to creating garments.
The collection presents a bold homage to Queen Elizabeth I against a backdrop of contemporary culture, described as a “manosphere moment.” The designs feature intricate details such as dresses composed of over 30 yards of starched lace and corset busques, emphasizing a blend of elegance and strength. Marshall referenced Roy Strong’s book on Elizabeth, highlighting that the Queen often donned black—historically associated with nobility and masculinity, owing to its expense. One standout piece is a draped rain-resistant trench coat featuring cut-and-slashed sleeves that reveal luxurious cashmere linings by Loro Piana.
Key pieces in the collection include a striking strapless “Libet dress” adorned with a fanning Chantilly lace collar and pearls, showcasing a contemporary take on Elizabethan aesthetics. Another homage to fashion history is seen through a design that nods to Vivienne Westwood, celebrated for her influence on British fashion. Marshall also revisited Zandra Rhodes’s 1977 Conceptual Chic with a fresh lens, integrating custom fastenings and hand-knotted pearls into the designs.
The collection pays homage to British fashion elements through trench coats, punk studs, and New Romantic lace, while also introducing a distinctly feminized version of Teddy Boy styles. This is evidenced in a jacket featuring ivory satin lapels and lace accents, as well as a meticulously constructed plaid suit jacket that combines elements of traditional tailoring with modern feminine silhouettes.
Marshall’s creative vision included an animalistic quality to her rendition of Elizabeth, stating, “I used to draw these pictures of Elizabeth where she was half-god and half-Elizabeth, and so I wanted her to have this animalistic quality. I felt like there needed to be something that was exaggerating her and making her larger than life.” The collection offers a compelling blend of historical reference and modern aesthetics, positioning it to resonate with a diverse audience in today’s evolving fashion landscape.
Source: Noah Wire Services
