Ariana Grande’s unique peplum gown at the Oscars sparks discussions about fashion history and contemporary femininity.
Ariana Grande made a striking appearance at the Oscars, where her fashion choice certainly caught the attention of both spectators and critics alike. Grande donned a distinctive pink robe designed by Schiaparelli, which designer Daniel Roseberry described as being inspired by a lampshade. The gown featured a stiff bustier top that conformed closely to the singer and actress’s torso but flared out at her waist, mirroring the peplum style that is currently prevalent in fashion. The peplum, which stems from the German term for a flared extension at the waist, has its roots in the Greek word “peplos,” meaning veil.
This style of dressing has a profound history, reflecting a long-standing emphasis on the waist as a key feminine element in apparel. It can be traced back to ancient times when it referred to long women’s dresses often cinched at the waist with a belt. Mira von der Osten, a designer based in Berlin and the founder of the sustainable fashion label Cruba, echoes this sentiment, stating, “Peplum is therefore one of the oldest elements that beautifully dress women after the corset.” Selon von der Osten, the peplum silhouette represents a modern juxtaposition of design, being featured for the first time in her latest collection, which showcases the contrast between broad shoulders and a narrow waist.
Historical context illustrates how fashion trends reflect societal changes. The peplum was notably popularized by Christian Dior in the post-war era as part of his “New Look,” characterized by tiny waists paired with voluminous skirts. Despite criticisms regarding the impracticality of these designs, the “New Look” struck a chord, as it embodied a yearning for luxury following the scarcity experienced during the war. Today’s fashion revivals are similarly resonant; the peplum is reappearing amidst anxieties imposed by contemporary economic and political climates.
Dior’s current Fall/Winter 2025 prêt-à-porter collection incorporates elements reminiscent of this historic silhouette, drawing inspiration from Virginia Woolf’s novel “Orlando.” The show features models adorned in ruffles, lace, ermine, and other elaborate textiles, navigating through themes of gender roles and historical epochs. Designer Maria Grazia Chiuri’s collection aims to illustrate the fluidity of identity in a period marked by uncertainty, combining traditionally masculine elements with classic feminine features, including corsets and peplum details.
According to Mira von der Osten, this stylistic resurgence of the peplum is reflective of present-day realities. “We are coming out of a pandemic where everyone was just sitting at home in pajamas – and now we find ourselves in a post-pandemic time characterized by economic and political insecurity,” she stated. There seems to be a collective desire for designs that cultivate a sense of empowerment and security. Furthermore, von der Osten emphasizes that while peplum may have historical significance, dismissing it as merely conservative overlooks its potential for redefinition in contemporary fashion.
Various designers at the Milan and Paris fashion weeks have also tapped into this contemporary search for a new femininity, offering fresh interpretations of the peplum style. Renowned labels, including Balmain, Valentino, and Prada, have all explored combinations of slim waists and broad hips. Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, leaders at Prada, presented a more shapeless peplum silhouette in their latest collection, questioning the essence of female beauty today. Miuccia Prada articulated this inquiry during a post-show commentary: “What defines female beauty today?” Models showcased a range of aesthetics, moving away from traditional ideals while still carrying elements that hint at conventional femininity, thus allowing wearers to craft their own narratives within the framework of fashion.
Source: Noah Wire Services
