In an interview, Arianne Phillips discusses her creative process for A Complete Unknown, delving into Bob Dylan’s influential years and the challenges of capturing his evolution through costume design.
In a recent interview for Hero Magazine, costume designer Arianne Phillips shared her insights into the creation of designs for her latest project, A Complete Unknown, directed by Jim Mangold. This film delves into a pivotal four-year span in the life of legendary musician Bob Dylan, a subject Phillips has approached with both enthusiasm and a wealth of experience, as this marks her sixth collaboration with Mangold.
Reflecting on her long-standing relationship with Mangold, Phillips expressed gratitude for the opportunity to design for A Complete Unknown, stating, “That was my first film with him, which will always hold such a special place for me.” She noted the significance of female representation in Girl, Interrupted, her debut film with Mangold, indicating its lasting impact on her career. Despite a decade-long hiatus from working with him, Phillips began the design process for this new project in 2019, only to have production pushed back due to the COVID-19 pandemic.
During the prolonged hiatus caused by the pandemic, Phillips immersed herself in research about Dylan and his era, which she found not only engaging but also relevant in today’s political climate. “There are so many parallels to today in terms of uncertainty,” she remarked, mentioning historical events such as the Kennedy assassination, the Vietnam War, and the Civil Rights movement. She highlighted how the musical backdrop of this tumultuous period adds depth to Dylan’s story, which she believes resonates with contemporary audiences.
Phillips explained that designing for A Complete Unknown presented unique challenges, particularly as the narrative only spans four years compared to other biopics that cover a person’s entire life. She noted how the focus would largely be on the evolution of Dylan himself rather than changes in the external environment. “Within Bob, you can see his silhouette changing with his hair and his shoes,” she elaborated, tracing his shift from work boots to mod Chelsea boots through various stages of his career. This focused approach required a keen eye for detail, especially concerning wardrobe staples like denim, which has its own historical significance tied to Dylan’s persona.
For the film, Phillips collaborated with Levi’s to source vintage clothing representative of the period. She recalled working with Levi’s historian Paul O’Neill, who helped authenticate Dylan’s wardrobe, particularly the jeans featured on the cover of Freewheelin’. “I reached out to the people at Levi’s who have a wonderful entertainment division that works with the archive and vintage department,” she explained. Phillips also recounted how the company recreated specific styles, such as the ‘Super Slims’ that Dylan wore briefly, enhancing the authenticity of the costume designs.
Another layer of historical authenticity came from Phillips’ discovery through Suze Rotlo’s book, A Free Wheelin’ Time, which detailed Dylan’s approach to his style. Phillips realized that Dylan’s appearance was not just a product of chance but involved thoughtful consideration, particularly in how he crafted his look as a young artist finding his place in the world. “He’s a nineteen-year-old kid, he’s just left home and he’s trying to figure out his relation to the world,” she remarked, reflecting on Dylan’s relatable journey from adolescence to iconic status.
Phillips’ careful attention to the nuances of Dylan’s clothing, as well as the historical context of the era, sets the stage for a richly woven narrative in A Complete Unknown. Her collaborative approach and the thoughtful design process promise to create a film that captures the intricate dynamics of a time that shaped not only Dylan but also the world around him.
Source: Noah Wire Services
