Norbert Stumpfl unveils a transformative womenswear line for Brioni, combining tailored menswear influences with innovative designs for the modern woman.
Norbert Stumpfl, the new creative lead for Brioni’s women’s collection, has unveiled a striking expansion of the luxury brand’s offerings that merges the house’s storied heritage in tailored menswear with innovative designs for women. This move comes as part of Brioni’s evolution under the ownership of Kering Group, which has granted Stumpfl and his team considerable latitude in redefining the brand’s identity for a female audience.
The debut lookbook, marked by a sophisticated tuxedo layered over an avant-garde top that omits shoulders and sleeves, encapsulates Stumpfl’s vision. Speaking to “Vogue,” he stated, “I really think we are onto something at Brioni. This is a luxury which is not empty.” His commentary reflects a thoughtful approach that balances Brioni’s traditional elements with contemporary aesthetics.
Stumpfl’s process has been highly collaborative, featuring consultations with Gigliola Savini Perrone, daughter of the brand’s co-founder, Gaetano Savini. This involvement has been pivotal in blending the meticulous craftsmanship and masculine tailoring that Brioni is known for into pieces created for women. The result is a collection that, while rooted in an 80-year legacy of excellence, confidently embraces a modern femininity without compromising the brand’s distinctive identity.
The collection includes a range of garments that have been cleverly reimagined from classic menswear silhouettes. For instance, a safari suit was adapted into a dress by elongating the shirt and converting shorts into pants. Pencil skirts crafted from pale cashmere fil coupe feature a unique single vent at the front, a design element typically reserved for men’s jackets, that enhances movement and comfort. Additionally, a streamlined tuxedo top was transformed into an elegant evening dress, complete with hand-applied black floral embellishments, showcasing the brand’s commitment to craftsmanship.
Stumpfl emphasized a different direction in client profiling, noting, “She doesn’t care about being known for wearing any particular brand. She just wants her clothes to work beautifully in order to let her work.” This statement hints at a shift in focus from brand prominence to functionality and adaptability, aligning Brioni’s womenswear more closely with its menswear ethos.
The tailored jackets in the collection maintain the precision and craftsmanship expected from Brioni, yet they feature architectural alterations designed to cater to the unique shapes of female clients. Some jackets are accessorized with belts, a notable deviation from traditional menswear practices, and others are layered over flexible pieces that blur the lines between shirts and blouses.
Stumpfl’s approach introduces a cosmopolitan sensibility to Brioni’s womenswear, highlighting a vision for luxury that is filled with potential for the modern woman.
Source: Noah Wire Services
