Brooks Brothers commemorates the 125th anniversary of its signature button-down collar, a key contribution to classic men’s fashion with a storied past and connection to American culture.
Brooks Brothers, an enduring name in American fashion, is celebrating the 125th anniversary of its iconic button-down collar this year. The button-down shirt, which features two small buttons on the collar tips, has an intriguing origin story. It is rumored to have been inspired by British polo players tired of their long shirt collars flapping in their faces during games. However, historical evidence supporting this narrative remains elusive. Bernhard Roetzel, author of “The Gentleman – Handbook of Classic Men’s Fashion,” noted that his extensive research over 25 years found no visual documentation that definitively links the design to polo players, suggesting a blend of myth and reality in the shirt’s origins.
Regardless of its beginnings, Roetzel characterized the button-down collar as one of the “few American contributions to classic men’s fashion,” with Brooks Brothers playing a pivotal role in its popularization. The button-down collar made its debut around 1900, adding a distinctive flair to the existing styles of collars, which ranged from minimalist to more elaborate varieties. The unique construction of the shirts typically features Oxford broadcloth fabric, known for its sturdiness. Initially offered exclusively in white, patterned versions later emerged.
The history of the button-down collar is painted with contributions from various influential figures. Notably, Italian industrialist Gianni Agnelli gave the style a new level of prestige, helping to elevate off-the-rack American fashion. According to Roetzel, Agnelli was known for occasionally breaking fashion norms, such as wearing the collar unbuttoned, further enhancing its charm.
The list of celebrities associated with the button-down collar includes prominent names such as Andy Warhol, who famously purchased numerous white shirts at Brooks Brothers during the 1950s, using his earnings as an advertising illustrator. Other notable personalities include actors Paul Newman, Steve McQueen, and Clark Gable, all of whom contributed to the shirt’s status in American culture. Additionally, educated students from elite East Coast universities embraced the button-down shirt as part of the Ivy League look, pairing it with tweed suits and penny loafers, solidifying its role as a style staple.
For many years, Brooks Brothers has also catered to the fashion needs of American politicians, helping provide a polished appearance through its offerings. From Abraham Lincoln to Barack Obama, nearly every U.S. president has turned to Brooks Brothers for their sartorial needs, highlighting the brand’s longstanding connection to American political life.
In the 1980s, the Ivy League aesthetic was revitalized by fashion designer Ralph Lauren, who had initially worked as a tie salesman at Brooks Brothers before establishing his own label. Drawing from the traditions of his former employer, Lauren successfully modernized the classic tastes associated with the American fashion house.
The celebration of the button-down collar this year not only marks a significant milestone in fashion history but also underscores the enduring legacy of Brooks Brothers as a quintessential American brand.
Source: Noah Wire Services
