New York: At the Park Avenue Armory, designer Cate Holstein presented her fall 2025 Khaite collection, drawing cinematic inspiration from David Lynch and 1940s film noir, blending modern silhouettes with retro elements. The collection highlights the resilience of vintage aesthetics in contemporary fashion narratives.
At the Park Avenue Armory, fashion designer Cate Holstein showcased her fall 2025 Khaite collection in a striking presentation that intertwined cinematic inspiration with haute couture. The event, held on a raised circular runway bathed in a yellow-orange glow, resonated with the sounds of Massive Attack, creating an atmospheric backdrop for the unveiling of her latest work.
During a preview, Holstein elaborated on the thematic homage to her late hero, filmmaker David Lynch, saying it was a “yellow brick road,” a reference to the iconic film “The Wizard of Oz.” Lynch’s influence on her work is profound; he championed the fusion of dreamlike narratives with dark aesthetics. Holstein’s collection also drew inspiration from the 1947 film noir, “The Two Mrs. Carolls,” featuring costumes by the celebrated Edith Head. The use of vintage film as a source of inspiration highlights the historical narratives that influence contemporary fashion choices.
The collection embraced a mix of 1940s silhouettes, showcasing elements like power shoulders and leopard print, which evoked a sense of timeless elegance. It showcased sultry open-back dresses layered over bra tops and structured shrugs that paired impeccably with pencil skirts or pleated trousers. Among the standout pieces was a distinctive leopard pony coat coupled with cigarette pants and a chic tunic, aligning modern sensibilities with retro flair.
The resurgence of the corset in contemporary fashion is notable, as it has been featured in various collections, including those by well-known designers such as John Galliano and Daniel Roseberry. Holstein offered a fresh take on the corset, emphasising soft sculptural forms rather than traditional cinching, using materials like black leather and silk jacquard. Her designs incorporated layering techniques with cashmere T-shirts and opera gloves, presented alongside low-slung dark denim and tailored trousers, creating a distinctive modern wardrobe.
Khaite’s recent expansion into markets like Dallas, South Coast Plaza in California, and Madison Avenue in New York signalled a shift towards a broader sartorial narrative that transcends the archetypal New York woman. The collection included avant-garde elements such as sculpted puff-sleeve tops, intricate cutting techniques, and playful textures, while also delving into relaxed styles featuring cashmere camp shirts and denim.
Moreover, Holstein’s exploration into punk-prep aesthetics with argyle sweaters and red leather jackets illustrates the versatility and adaptability of vintage-inspired fashion within the modern context. This collection embodies a synthesis of historical influence with contemporary fashion, showcasing how timeless brands like Khaite manage to stay relevant amidst the ever-evolving landscape of style.
In summary, Holstein’s latest effort reflects a confident stride along a metaphorical ‘yellow brick road,’ illuminating the journey of fashion that intertwines rich histories while navigating modern trends.
Source: Noah Wire Services
