The Jack & Jill Foundation charity shop in Portlaoise highlights the growing trend of second-hand shopping amidst challenges of unsorted donations and environmental concerns.
In Portlaoise, Ireland, the Jack & Jill Foundation charity shop has become a focal point in the local community for its extensive collection of second-hand items. Located in an industrial unit on the outskirts of the midlands town, the shop is filled to capacity with furniture, household items, books, and a significant volume of clothing. The sheer quantity of donations has led to a sizable cordoned-off area stacked high with black bags, underscoring both the generosity of the public and the challenges faced by the shop’s volunteers.
Martina Cooper, the shop manager, shared insights regarding the busy operations of the store. “We’d go through about 60 bags a day and it takes about six volunteers throughout the day to sort through it,” she noted. Cooper also emphasized the positive side of this influx, stating that sales have risen, partly driven by a shift in consumer attitudes towards second-hand clothing. “It’s cool now to buy second-hand,” she remarked, highlighting a trend among younger shoppers.
This situation at the Jack & Jill charity shop is reflective of a broader trend seen across Ireland, where donations to over 650 charity shops have surged. The rise in donations has made sorting through clothing a labor-intensive yet manageable task for volunteers and staff as they adapt to new challenges. Cooper explained that their donation area has not been fully cleared since April of the previous year, prompting her to extend the space in anticipation of continued generosity.
Larger charity shop chains have adapted to the surge of donations by employing a cascading system, where unsold clothing items are redistributed to different shops. Dermot McGilloway, the national retail development manager for St Vincent de Paul (SVP), elaborated on their operational strategy. The organization has established order fulfillment centers across Ireland, which have doubled the resale rate of donated textiles from 5,000 to 10,000 tonnes per year.
Despite these efforts, only about 50 percent of donated clothing is deemed suitable for resale. The remaining items are sent to Cookstown Textile Recyclers in Randalstown, Co Antrim, for further sorting into as many as 250 categories. Mark Sweeney, chair of Charity Retail Ireland, noted that approximately 35 percent of these items are exported for reuse, while others are repurposed or processed for different materials. He categorized Cookstown Textile Recyclers as a “Grade A” facility, emphasizing its commitment to ethical handling of textiles.
However, the challenges posed by unsorted textiles continue to be a source of concern. Much of this clothing has been linked to environmental repercussions in various countries, particularly in Africa, where unregulated waste facilities have become significant issues. Experts are calling for changes to how textiles are produced and managed, pointing to upcoming EU legislation, such as the Eco-design Sustainable Products Regulation and the Digital Product Passport. Linda Ward, secretary of Charity Retail Ireland, explained that these measures aim to trace products from their raw material phase to their end of life, thereby helping to identify quality and durability.
The problem of overproduction in the fashion industry also looms large, as sustainability experts estimate that as much as 30 percent more clothing is manufactured than the market requires. Sweeney highlighted the ramifications of fast fashion on charity shops, stating, “If you pay €1.50 for something you bought online, what can a charity shop resell it for?” He pointed to the growing misconception among consumers regarding what can be sold through charity shops, as some items, despite appearing new, may not meet quality standards desired by shoppers.
In Ireland, the issue of textile waste is pressing, with figures indicating that the country disposes of 164,000 tonnes of clothing each year, marking it as one of the highest producers of textile waste in the EU. Many of these items, including unsold fast-fashion goods, end up classified as end-of-life textiles, leading to future consequences for those countries that receive them.
Sweeney and other industry experts have remarked on the need for improved infrastructure to facilitate reuse options, particularly for unsold textiles, which could be repurposed for insulation and construction materials. The company Greenful, which manufactures construction materials from recycled textile and plastic waste, is expanding its operations in Europe, representing an example of potential solutions for textile waste.
In response to the growing concerns surrounding textile management, the Irish Government established a Textile Advisory Group last year to examine the entire lifecycle of textiles from production to disposal. A report detailing its findings is expected to be published in April, potentially guiding future initiatives to minimize the impact of textile waste on the environment.
Source: Noah Wire Services