The latest collection by Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli interprets the myth of Icarus, merging historical styles with contemporary fashion themes.
The latest haute couture collection by designer Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli, titled “Icarus,” showcases a unique interpretation of the Greek myth of Icarus, focusing on themes of ambition, fragility, and modernity. The collection debuted recently and is characterized by its intricate designs that draw inspiration from past fashion movements and artistically engage with the narrative of Icarus, who famously perished after flying too close to the sun.
According to Roseberry, the collection embodies a “search for perfection.” He skillfully redefines modernity through a blend of styles from various decades, including elements from the 1920s Art Deco movement, 1950s A-line skirts, and the 1930s emphasis on embellishment. This blend aims to highlight the ongoing dialogue between reality and fantasy within the realm of fashion. The delicate materials utilized, such as silk and taffeta, symbolize the fragility of Icarus’ wings and serve as a visual metaphor for his soaring ambition and eventual fall.
One standout piece in the collection is a beige tulle skirt paired with a tailored black bodice, designed to embody the structural yet delicate nature of Icarus’ wings. The contrasting textures and colors are indicative of Roseberry’s artistic vision, presenting a visceral representation of high ambition. The layered design seeks to evoke the weightless feel of flight while simultaneously acknowledging the fatal consequences of Icarus’ hubris. Complemented by the models’ ethereal makeup, this look illustrates the harmonious balance of light and dark within the collection.
Another significant design pays homage to the renowned corsets of Elsa Schiaparelli, featuring intricate boning that creates an exaggerated hourglass silhouette. The contrast between the nude bodice and the ruched grey satin embellishes the narrative of ambition and aspiration. The gown exemplifies Roseberry’s philosophy of fashion as “wearable sculptures,” suggesting that each piece embodies a story drawn from the complexities of the fashion industry and the pursuit of success.
The collection’s grand finale is perhaps encapsulated in a metallic grey mermaid gown, which features a voluminous bow that drapes dramatically into a sweeping train. This piece merges baroque elements with modern design, showcasing how components from different eras can converge to create something novel and luxurious. The play of materials—from a mesh bodice to a pleated skirt—demonstrates how elegance can transcend time.
The evocative use of feathers is exemplified in a striking 1930s-inspired feathered coat that reflects the dramatic essence of haute couture. When the coat is removed, it reveals a grey feathered strapless bustier and a beige satin bias-cut column skirt, further enhancing the collection’s luxurious aesthetic. Roseberry employs a method of bathing feathers in glycerin to maximize their sheen, capturing the sunlight and invoking both the historical glamour of old Hollywood and the exuberance of burlesque.
Through the “Icarus” collection, Roseberry illustrates the interplay between fragility and resilience that defines ambition. The designs serve as a bridge connecting the past with the present, echoing Roseberry’s continuous effort to redefine the fashion landscape. In creating garments that resemble sculptures, he not only honors the legacy of Elsa Schiaparelli but also posits that the narrative of Icarus resonates deeply within the fashion industry today. The forthcoming impact and reception of this collection remain to be seen as it aims for a place in the evolving discourse of haute couture, as crafted by Roseberry’s skilled vision.
Source: Noah Wire Services
