Designer Emilia Wickstead unveiled her autumn/winter collection inspired by Alfred Hitchcock’s classic film, blending vintage aesthetics with modern themes.
At London Fashion Week, designer Emilia Wickstead showcased her latest autumn/winter collection, drawing inspiration from Alfred Hitchcock’s iconic 1963 film, “The Birds.” The event took place at the Saatchi Gallery, where models walked the runway to the tense string score composed by Bernard Hermann, immersing the audience in a cinematic atmosphere.
Wickstead, born in New Zealand, is known for her meticulous craftsmanship and innovative use of color-blocking. Her collection paid homage not only to the film but also to its influential costume designer, Edith Head, who won numerous Oscars for her work, and to actress Tippi Hedren, who portrayed the film’s central character, Melanie Daniels. “I wanted to strip back the glamour and the fantasy of Hitchcock a little bit, and make it feel relevant for today,” Wickstead explained to British Vogue.
The collection featured striking pieces that combined references from the film with contemporary themes. Notably, the models donned pillbox hats—a fashion staple reminiscent of the 1960s—paired with various footwear including calf-high lace-up boots, illustrating a juxtaposition of old and new styles. The palette explored muted tones such as taupe, pale pinks, and mint, interspersed with bolder choices like a vibrant hot red dress and saturated turquoise accents.
Wickstead’s approach in this collection involved deconstructing the idealized images presented in classic films, seeking to reflect a more realistic narrative. This manifested in design elements such as silk shirts with unconventional collars and tailored pieces that exuded a sense of dishevelment while maintaining elegance. Additionally, some models walked the runway clutching newspapers titled “The Wickstead Times,” adding a layer of modernity and commentary to the looks.
The highlight of the showcase included a series of ethereal gowns adorned with flower patterns that created a ghostly illusion, captured under layers of glossy organza. Wickstead articulated her vision of merging the surreal elements of her collection with contemporary relevance, noting the historical context of women’s fashion. “The way women dressed was never as buttoned-up as you might think,” she remarked, revealing her excitement at uncovering these connections.
Wickstead’s collection not only encapsulated elements of 1960s fashion but also delved into deeper themes, such as resilience and vulnerability inspired by the female characters portrayed in Hitchcock’s films. She reflected on the impact of characters crafted by Head, stating, “I guess I’m celebrating the stories, and the parts that these women played… because I think they’re remarkable women.”
As fashion enthusiasts and critics engage with Wickstead’s latest offering, the blend of historical and modern aesthetics alongside her commentary on the complexity of female representation in film suggests a profound and thoughtful direction for the designer’s future work.
Source: Noah Wire Services
