Designer Masha Popova explores the themes of impermanence and comfort in fashion, inspired by her nomadic lifestyle and the art of Sophie Calle.
Masha Popova, a designer with roots in Ukraine, has experienced a nomadic lifestyle since her return to Britain in 2021. She has not settled in one location for longer than six months, navigating the challenging landscape of the London rental market marked by a multitude of temporary sublets. In a recent interview with Vogue, Popova drew inspiration from artist Sophie Calle’s 1984 project, The Hotel. In the project, Calle spent three weeks in Venice posing as a chambermaid, capturing intimate details left behind by guests – such as lipstick-stained handkerchiefs and the impressions on bedsheets. Reflecting on this, Popova stated, “I recognized those temporary spaces and how it feels to be inside of them. I move around so much that I don’t even unpack.”
The focus of Popova’s latest collection is a deeply personal exploration designed to convey a sense of comfort while on the move. Feature elements of her collection were showcased through a lookbook and film filmed at The Langham Hotel, emphasizing her transient experiences and exploration through fashion. The collection illustrates a blend of design aesthetics, including indigo bombers interlaced with shawl collars reminiscent of resort bathrobes, and striped shirts adorned with trailing scarves that evoke the cozy feel of a cabin or hotel room. Additionally, her two-tone corduroys were inspired by the textiles found in traditional hotel suites.
Upon closer examination, the collection reveals nuances symbolizing transience and imperfection. For example, a cowl-back mini dress features straps that slide off the shoulders, and double-layered pencil skirts with zippers half-snagged at the knee—subtle allusions to interrupted moments of departure. “I’ve always wanted to capture the idea of lived-in clothes,” Popova described, emphasizing her intention to convey the stories behind the garments as worn by individuals.
In this installment, the denim offering represents a significant portion of her collection. It showcases her signature bias-cut bootlegs alongside skinnies treated with protective wax, leaving selective areas exposed to the natural aging process. Meanwhile, spaghetti-strapped dresses are designed with long hems treated in a way that resembles being splattered with petrol. An innovative integration of a jersey hoodie and sleeveless blazer incorporates a septic-brown dye, reflecting her philosophy towards clothing aesthetics. “The pristine look of new clothes feels soulless and dead to me,” Popova articulated during her unveiling of a pair of purposely scuffed white boots. These boots, having not been restored since their shooting, serve as a testament to her approach. “Garments, like humans, become more beautiful with age,” she added, noting that these “imperfections are imprints of life.”
As Popova continues her journey within the fashion industry, her collection exemplifies the intimate overlap between her personal experiences and her design narrative, offering a reflection on the beauty of life’s transient moments and the stories embedded in clothing.
Source: Noah Wire Services
