A new collaboration merges vintage craftsmanship with contemporary design, reviving antique garments into modern evening wear.
Fashion continues to weave nostalgic threads from past decades into modern designs, with the fall 2025 runway showcasing a notable return to the aesthetic codes of the 1990s. Designers across the fashion industry are embracing minimalist styles and broad silhouettes, as exemplified by Calvin Klein’s new creative director Veronica Leoni and Saint Laurent’s Anthony Vaccarello. A significant shift presents itself, however, in a collaboration that draws not just from design inspirations but from actual vintage garments.
Launching tomorrow, a new capsule collection of evening wear will feature ten distinct looks created in conjunction with Etéreo Vintage and the Upper East Side atelier ONE OF. This initiative stands out in its endeavor to revitalize antique garments, transforming century-old styles into relevant modern attire. The collection highlights pieces sourced from acclaimed fashion houses including Jeanne Lanvin, Madame Grès, and Jean Patou, marking a unique intersection between historical craftsmanship and contemporary design.
The project began at a shared address on East 70th Street, where Zabrina Estrada of Etéreo Vintage and Patricia Voto of ONE OF became neighbors. “We have the same sensibilities of slow fashion and old-world feel,” Estrada stated, reflecting on their collaboration. Esteemed for her ability to locate early-20th-century couture, Estrada teamed up with Voto, known for her bespoke fashion creations and for repurposing heirloom pieces. Their partnership was initiated around the concept of upcycling, focusing primarily on vintage treasures that were deemed too fragile or damaged for typical use.
Among the noteworthy transformations is a 1920s Jean Patou dress reimagined as a silk-wool kimono. Voto spoke of the restoration process, where intricate work was required to mend the original garment’s delicate fabrics. “The tulle was completely broken; the beads were starting to fall off,” she detailed, explaining how materials from unsalvageable sections were thoughtfully incorporated into the newly crafted design.
Furthermore, a Liberty & Co. dress dating back to the 1920s underwent a meticulous renovation, incorporating an interlining for stability and adding updated design elements such as a square neckline and an ornate dynamic hem. Other pieces have also been adapted creatively, such as a 1930s New York dress designed as a three-piece set, spotlighting Voto’s skill in blending antique aesthetics with modern silhouettes.
Challenges arose, particularly regarding the fragility of materials. The light fabrics often needed considerable care, leading Voto to encounter garments that were on the brink of collapse. One dress, originally from the 1950s, posed a dilemma due to its limited size and near-pristine condition. Estrada recounted the deliberations over whether to preserve the garment as is or adapt it for broader use, ultimately choosing to redesign it into a modern, two-piece ensemble while maintaining its original label alongside the new.
Each of these ten creations embodies a seamless transition between the old and new, showcasing an ease that reflects both current fashion trends and the more liberated, relaxed sensibilities of earlier eras. Voto remarked on the cyclical nature of fashion, pointing out how changes over the decades have allowed for greater freedom in design, often paralleling societal shifts in clothing styles. Their collaborative effort not only underscores their commitment to craftsmanship but also highlights a responsible approach to fashion in a landscape often dominated by rapid consumption.
Ultimately, this capsule collection embodies a dialogue between eras, breathing new life into garments that might otherwise remain retired. The designs serve not only as a celebration of fashion history but also as a reflection of the evolving fabric of contemporary style. As the pieces prepare to debut, they stand as a testament to the intricate balance of preservation and innovation in the world of fashion.
Source: Noah Wire Services
