The fall 2025 GCDS collection blends unconventional influences, from ’90s nostalgia to Southern Italian heritage, showcased in Milan.
The fall 2025 GCDS collection, designed by Giuliano Calza, showcased an eclectic fusion of styles during a preview held in his Art Nouveau–style studio located in Milan. The collection embodies a harmonious blend of unconventional influences, drawing from the aesthetics of grandma-style lace, the grunge movement, and the nostalgic fashion of the iconic ’90s television character, Lizzie McGuire.
At the heart of this collection lies a strong commitment to contrasts, a hallmark of Calza’s design philosophy. One of the key inspirations for the fall line came from the distinct fabrics found in the wardrobes of southern Italian grandmothers. Calza’s interest was sparked during his summer reading of “La banda degli invisibili” by Fabio Bartolomei, which narrates the story of disenchanted elderly individuals who plot to kidnap former Italian Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi to reclaim what society has overlooked.
The juxtaposition present in the GCDS collection is epitomized by the incorporation of grunge elements, prominently displayed through the use of leopard print across knitwear, faux furs, and slip dresses. The styling clearly pays homage to the ’90s, characterized by layered outfits that mix diverse prints and textures. These ensembles featured polished python prints and preppy elements reminiscent of classic school uniforms, complemented with thigh-high boots that assert a contemporary edge.
Another striking element of the collection is the use of detachable lace collars, which serve as a nod to Calza’s Southern Italian heritage and evoke memories of traditional school uniforms. These collars were styled over oversized, egg-shaped coats, generous tuxedos, and double-breasted blazers, creating a visual dialogue inherent in Calza’s design ethos.
Calza described his creative direction as “gothic pop,” a term that encapsulates the collection’s playful yet dark undertones. Noteworthy references to pop culture are also embedded in the line, including a T-shirt dedicated to the recent celebration of Robert Eggers’ “Nosferatu” film, emphasizing the designer’s engagement with contemporary events and themes.
This multifaceted collection reflects a unique narrative that intertwines age-old inspirations with modern aesthetics, further solidifying GCDS’s role at the intersection of fashion and storytelling.
Source: Noah Wire Services
