Giorgia Gabriele’s latest collection reflects her journey as a designer, merging femininity with androgynous elements while paying homage to iconic style inspirations.
Giorgia Gabriele unveiled her latest fall collection during a recent show, which she described as a meeting of tradition and contemporary icons. Speaking to Vogue, Gabriele noted, “So far, this is the collection that feels the most like me, the one that truly reflects me as a woman.” The designer’s brand, Armarium, has consistently aimed to merge her personal aesthetic with the desires of modern women, emphasizing a reclamation of femininity that diverges from traditionally masculine wardrobes. Instead, the collection aims for a distinctly feminine presentation, while still maintaining elements of androgyny that are pivotal to their fashion narrative.
The latest collection pays homage to cosmopolitan women, blending the chic sophistication of figures like Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy with the pastoral elegance found in the British countryside. Gabriele commented on Bessette-Kennedy’s understated elegance, stating, “She had an elegance that was never ostentatious, she knew how to break the mold without making noise.” This inspiration led her to a departure from strict minimalism, as she stated, “For the first time I let go; I embraced a less rational concept of minimalism.”
A photograph from 1998 of Bessette-Kennedy illustrates the iconic style that Gabriele sought to capture; she wore a white pencil skirt that gracefully exposed her ankles, complemented by a form-fitting black jacket with a mandarin collar and buttoned-up front. Gabriele’s design, named the “Carolyn,” aspires to be an accessible piece for anyone who identifies with its elegance.
The collection features a rich color palette comprised of moss greens, cherry to burgundy reds, earthy browns, and hints of blue, alongside gray and black tones. These colors aim to evoke the warmth and refinement of English cottages, with fabrics that include shearling, virgin wool, merino wool, nappa leather, refined calfskin, and ostrich leather indicative of high-quality craftsmanship.
Silhouettes in the collection vary from fluid to structured, achieving a harmonious balance between architectural design and comfort. The outerwear and knitwear are central to the offering, which includes shearling coats, reimagined tailored overcoats, quilted jackets, and leather bombers alongside jacquard knitwear reminiscent of traditional herringbone tweed patterns.
In a new development for Armarium, Gabriele introduced jewelry and sunglasses to her collection. The jewelry line, crafted from 24K gold-plated brass, features the “Vaso” series, which encompasses earrings, necklaces, bracelets, and rings inspiring architectural forms reminiscent of vases. Additionally, the “Mussel Shell” series brings an artistic reference to the sea, presenting an unconventional yet timeless element to the fall collection. Gabriele emphasizes that with each season, her creations form part of a broader vision within her brand philosophy, suggesting a continuous evolution rather than isolated themes.
Source: Noah Wire Services
