New York: Heirlome, founded by Stephanie Suberville Rodriguez and Jeffrey Axford, showcases a unique ethos through artisan collaborations, prioritising craftsmanship and cultural preservation in its latest collection, featuring tonal dressing and innovative design elements, reflecting the beauty of diverse cultural influences.
In the vibrant fashion scene of New York, this season has seen a significant emphasis on tonal dressing and soft-to-the-touch fabrics. A notable participant in this trend is Heirlome, a brand founded by designer Stephanie Suberville Rodriguez and CEO Jeffrey Axford in 2022. Heirlome stands out by not only engaging with current design trends but by embedding a unique ethos into its creations through collaborations with artisans primarily from Rodriguez’s native Mexico.
Rodriguez prioritises craftsmanship not merely by outsourcing production. Instead, she invites artisans to be part of the design process, ensuring an authentic evolution within each collection rather than adhering to the traditional biannual fashion cycle. This approach not only contributes to the uniqueness of the clothing but also plays a crucial role in preserving artisanal skills that are at risk of fading away. “Heirlome,” Rodriguez explained, refers to the middle English variant of “heirloom,” typically associated with precious family items passed down through generations. However, Rodriguez envisions it as more than an object, stating, “I’ve come to think of an heirloom not only as an object, but as a tool or as a skill that you can pass on.” In an interview with Vogue, she elaborated the importance of creating connections through her work, saying, “it’s also the love for the artisans and the preserving of art and culture.”
The artisan contributions are evident in various collections this season. For example, the artistry of Angelica Moreno’s Talavera de la Reyna workshop in Puebla, Mexico, contributed to striking black-and-white prints and a skirt drawing inspiration from traditional patterns. Similarly, multi-textured 3D sweaters crafted from Japanese yarn are a product of collaboration with Madres y Artisanas Tex from La Paz, Bolivia. Furthermore, Raintree Design PVT. from Mumbai developed a plaited bra top and skirt adorned with deep fringe, showcasing the diverse skill sets from different regions.
Highlighting the seasonal focus, Heirlome’s signature piece is a double-breasted camel-hair coat featuring an ingenious design element—a button at the back allowing for the attachment of a matching shawl. The collection also includes a luxuriously textured black leather jacket known as Iggy, inspired by rock icon Iggy Pop. Rodriguez took inspiration from renowned fashion influences, including Christian Dior’s structured Bar suit and the timeless elegance of Carolyn Bessette-Kennedy. Rodriguez reflected on her influences, acknowledging the impact of the 1990s Calvin Klein era on her aesthetic, stating, “I’ve always been kind of clean…but I don’t consider myself a minimalist.”
Heirlome’s collection is poised to transition seamlessly from day to evening wear, featuring crinkled black fabric transformed into a neo-fortuny skirt and a meticulously designed top with a petaled collar. Additional highlights include an ivory satin bias-cut skirt paired with a sculpted, textured belted sweater, along with a striking strapless dress featuring an origami-style fold at the neckline in rich wine red, adding a vibrant splash to the predominantly tonal collection.
In a season where themes are typically prevalent, Rodriguez drew inspiration from a Vogue México story on braids. This motif of plaiting not only influenced the knitted pieces but also served as a metaphor for unity and strength amid socio-political discussions that often focus on division. “Strength is to be found in our connections—to time, to history, to craft, and to each other,” she articulated, framing the interplay of design and cultural heritage as an essential narrative within her brand’s philosophy.
Source: Noah Wire Services
