New York: Henry Zankov’s Fall 2025 collection draws inspiration from the 1960s art scene, featuring vibrant colours and unique textures that honour cultural icons. His innovative approach integrates emotional narratives, showcasing artisanal skills and personal connections that resonate deeply, redefining vintage-inspired fashion for a modern audience.
Backstage after his Fall 2025 presentation, Henry Zankov reflected on the eclectic influences that shaped his latest collection, drawing inspiration from iconic figures of the 1960s New York art scene. As he spoke to Vogue, Zankov noted how his creative process was driven by a desire to honour those who navigated life unconcerned with societal judgement. He specifically mentioned individuals such as Kim Gordon, Nico, Candy Darling, and Edie Sedgwick, stating, “After Kim Gordon last season, I was thinking again about those people who go through life without caring too much about what other people think of them.”
Zankov’s approach to design is characterised by a departure from the conventional moodboard methodology, opting instead for a more nuanced interpretation of retro influences. His collection featured a delicate integration of nods to the Warhol Factory ethos, complemented by a lyrical blend of vibrant colours, textures, and craftsmanship. The presentation included quarter-sized paillettes adorning sweaters and skirts, reminiscent of the sequins that might have been chosen by Darling for nights at the Exploding Plastic Inevitable.
The collection showcased a striking pairing of vividly coloured garments, particularly a cool reverse Argyle patterned sweater worn with elongated trousers. Such stylistic choices conjured images of Nico, whose heavy flaxen hair and distinctive Teutonic voice contributed to the cultural landscape of the time. Zankov, however, has sought to expand beyond mere “sweater dressing,” with clean lines in his trousers providing a sharp contrast to the rich textures of his knits. This interplay between minimalist silhouettes and maximalist elements showcases Zankov’s versatility as a designer.
Zankov’s collection went beyond visual representation; it was an emotional exploration. His spirited use of colour—ranging from dusky pink to acid chartreuse, buttery yellow, gold, and teal—coupled with innovative knitting techniques established a sense of intimacy within the garments. Techniques such as engineered fringe and the fusion of merino wool with velvet highlighted the artisanal skills that are becoming synonymous with New York fashion, a priority Zankov has maintained since the inception of his label five years ago.
The emotional depth of the collection further resonated through Zankov’s thoughtful acknowledgments of personal connections. In his show notes, he expressed appreciation for his good friend Chloe and his boyfriend Andrew, leading to a presentation that felt deeply personal and connected to real-life experiences. This ability to weave emotional narrative into fashion design underscores why Zankov’s work has garnered attention and acclaim, as it not only captures the essence of retro trends but also redefines them for a contemporary audience, ensuring the legacy of vintage-inspired fashion remains vibrant and relevant.
Source: Noah Wire Services
