Milan: The January 2025 edition of Milano Unica spotlighted Italy’s commitment to sustainable textiles, focusing on local fibre production, upcycling, and innovative practices among entrepreneurs aiming to revive Italy’s textile heritage while adhering to EU environmental standards.
During the January 2025 edition of Milano Unica, a notable focus emerged on sustainable practices in the textile industry, particularly centred around Italy’s reinvigoration of local textile fibre production. The event, part of the Fashion section of The SPIN OFF, highlighted innovative steps being taken toward upcycling, zero-waste initiatives, and sustainable fashion, which are rapidly gaining traction among entrepreneurs and fashion brands in the country.
Entrepreneurs in Italy are increasingly attempting to shift from imported textiles, primarily sourced from countries like China and India, towards locally cultivated fibres such as flax, hemp, cotton, and silk. The movement is driven by a combination of ambitions to achieve autonomy in the textile supply chain, provide traceable and high-quality raw materials, and align with EU regulations under the Green Deal. This restoration of textile fibre cultivation taps into Italy’s long-standing agricultural heritage, with a goal to gradually reclaim the status of a premier hub for textile production.
Luca Vignaga, CEO of Linificio Canapificio Nazionale (LCN), a company steeped in tradition with over 150 years of history, explained their efforts in organically growing flax in regions like Tuscany and Lombardy. Focused on quality over quantity, LCN initiated a supply chain project to create Lino d’Italia yarn, which is entirely sourced and manufactured in Italy. “We produce Lino d’Italia based on the requests of our exclusive customers from the luxury world. They are limited quantities, but of very high quality,” Vignaga stated. He explained that the project necessitated extensive research into seed varieties and agricultural practices to ensure the sustainability of their operations, reinforcing Italy’s potential to produce flax comparable to the finest French varieties.
Another entrepreneur, Francesco Vantin, co-founder of GimmiJeans, is reshaping the denim market by utilising Carmagnola hemp in the production of artisanal jeans. Vantin, who draws inspiration from family history in hemp cultivation, underscored the value of craftsmanship, stating, “We are offering garments with a very high craftsmanship value. We make pieces with artisanal hemp, from the seed to the finished garment, in the slowest and most responsible way possible.” His work exemplifies the merging of agricultural processes and artisanal textile production to achieve ethically made fashion. GimmiJeans offers products at a premium price point, reflecting the bespoke nature of their craftsmanship.
The textile revival also witnesses emergent projects such as Sofine, a brand conceptualised by entrepreneur Aliai Venturi Quattrini, which integrates agri-voltaic systems with organic cotton cultivation in Sicily. Their operation aims to expand from an initial 100 hectares to 1,100 by 2026, showcasing a significant commitment to sustainable agricultural practices complemented by renewable energy.
Conversely, Silvio Mandelli, CEO of Cosetex, expressed the complexities surrounding silk production in Italy. Although Italy was once a leader in the silk industry, the revival of silk cultivation faces challenges, notably labour demands, which complicates competitiveness against established markets like China and India. However, Mandelli noted that the future may lie in exploring non-textile applications for silk proteins, indicating potential growth sectors beyond conventional fabric production.
The statistics highlight the uphill battle these initiatives face, with synthetic fibres comprising approximately 67% of the total 124 million tonnes of fibres produced globally in 2023. This report signifies the stark reality that while there is great potential in local fibre production, competing with synthetic alternatives remains a formidable challenge.
Italy’s textile industry continues to evolve, marked by a distinct emphasis on quality and sustainability rather than sheer volume. As consumers increasingly demand eco-friendly options and transparency regarding the origins of products, the concerted efforts of these entrepreneurs represent a shift towards a more sustainable future in fashion. Through embracing principles of slow fashion and championing second-hand goods, these innovators are outlining a pathway to reduce environmental impact while crafting a more sustainable style landscape.
Source: Noah Wire Services
