New Delhi: Kartik Kumra’s label, Kartik Research, fuses traditional Indian textiles with modern design. Launched during the pandemic, it highlights India’s rich heritage through innovative techniques and collaborations, marking a significant shift in how Indian fashion is represented on global platforms.

Kartik Research, the brainchild of New Delhi-based designer Kartik Kumra, has positioned itself at the intersection of traditional Indian craftsmanship and contemporary fashion. Launched in 2021 when Kumra was just 20 years old, the brand aims to showcase India’s rich textile heritage on a global platform.

Kumra’s journey into the fashion industry began during his university days in the United States, where he developed an appreciation for high-fashion retailers like Dover Street Market and Selfridges. Despite studying economics, he felt compelled to bridge the gap between Western fashion and India’s artisanal crafts. Reflecting on his inspiration, Kumra stated, “I’d go to Dover Street Market, Selfridges – all these great stores – and I became a fan of Craig Green, Kiko Kostadinov, all these guys… but it didn’t make sense to me that there was nothing that referenced the rich textile heritage of India.”

The Covid-19 pandemic served as a pivotal moment for Kumra, prompting him to return to India and establish his label. In the early stages, he traversed the country with his mother to connect with various craft clusters, laying the groundwork for his production network. “Initially, it wasn’t so much of us supporting artisans, it was more of them supporting me,” Kumra shared, attributing part of his brand’s development to the difficult circumstances faced by artisans during the pandemic.

Today, Kartik Research operates from a studio in New Delhi, where some of the production, such as stitching and embroidery, is conducted in-house. The label utilises a variety of regional techniques, evident in the development of wool outerwear, which is crafted in remote areas accessible only after a long journey. In an innovative approach to his design ethos, Kumra opted to forgo runway shows for the Autumn/Winter 2025 collection, instead publishing a book titled AMDAVAD that encapsulates his design principles and exploration of India’s cultural narratives.

In Kumra’s words, “I wanted to tell a better story of what the representation of art and cultural movements in India can be,” highlighting his intention to move away from romanticised depictions of poverty that can often pervade artistic representations of Indian culture.

A notable achievement for Kumra was his involvement with the Mr Porter mentorship programme, where he collaborated with stylist Julie Ragolia and photographer Jeremy Everett to capture his recent collection set against the modernist architecture of Ahmedabad. Their photoshoot included locations that had been inaccessible for years, showcasing the unique and rebellious spirit of the project as Kumra described it as “guerrilla style.”

Kartik Research is distinguished not only by its commitment to handwoven textiles—85 per cent of which are developed exclusively for the brand—but also by its innovative relationships with local artisans. For instance, the knitwear is produced by a cooperative that expanded significantly after being spotlighted by cultural figures, while the denim supply chain reflects a meticulous approach to sourcing upcycled materials.

Kumra’s ability to blend traditional textiles with contemporary silhouettes has garnered attention in the fashion world. His designs draw inspiration from esteemed figures in fashion history, including a detachable collar reminiscent of the Margiela era at Hermès, and soft-tailored suiting inspired by early 2000s Yohji Yamamoto. His persistent pursuit of artisanal talent has forged strong partnerships; for example, he has worked with a highly sought-after artisan who now relies on Kartik Research as a significant source of work.

Kartik Research’s collections are available through its official website and at several international stockists, including high-end retailers such as SSENSE, Mr Porter, Dover Street Market Paris, Ginza, and 10 Corso Como Milan. The brand’s unique narrative combines India’s rich craftsmanship with modern design principles, establishing its presence on a global scale.

Source: Noah Wire Services