On a quest for inspiration, notable fashion designer Kiko Kostadinov explores a Williamsburg vintage store, seeking unique garments for his avant-garde collections.
On a warm July day in New York, Kiko Kostadinov, a notable fashion designer renowned for his innovative and avant-garde creations, visited a vintage store in Williamsburg as part of what he described as a research mission. At 35 years old, Kostadinov, who hails from Bulgaria, has gained recognition for his London-based brand, which has been experiencing significant success through unique runway collections and collaborations with brands like Asics and Levi’s.
Kostadinov is not merely shopping; his intent is to find unusual garments that could ignite inspiration for his own designs. “I already have a rack of, like, 20 things there,” he stated, gesturing toward a selection of items he had temporarily set aside. He was immersed in the process of discovering peculiar clothes, illustrating his quest for creative material through which he looks for quirky patterns or distinctive fabric treatments—elements that would likely inform his signature futuristic menswear style.
In his distinctively unassuming outfit, featuring an oversized vintage Orvis T-shirt and trousers of his own design, Kostadinov appeared incognito, yet his presence is notable. His preference for garments that reject mainstream appeal sets him apart in the fast-fashion industry. Contemporary artist Ryan Trecartin, a collaborator of Kostadinov’s, remarked on the uniqueness of his designs, saying, “It’s not copyable.”
Kostadinov established his brand in 2016 after completing his studies at London’s Central Saint Martins and has since witnessed consistent growth in his career. Despite the continual expansion, he grapples with being labeled a cult designer, often regarded more as an artist than a traditional fashion figure, which has implications for how his brand is perceived in the marketplace. Critics have sometimes expressed concerns over the complexity of his clothes, questioning if they are too niche for mass appeal. However, Kostadinov appears to eschew conventional notions of scalability in favor of his creative vision. “I just want to make cool shit,” he asserted, which possibly explains his ongoing popularity and business expansion.
In 2024, he launched a new office in Paris and opened a retail store in Tokyo, a venture designed by Trecartin that has drawn considerable interest, as evidenced by lines of eager customers eager to acquire his creations. “Most of the stuff that we make for the show we sell,” he noted while handling various materials in the vintage store. The establishment of this Tokyo store has proven transformative for his business model.
Last summer, his runway presentation at Paris Fashion Week reinvigorated an otherwise subdued event. Kostadinov showcased what he labeled as science-fiction clothing for the present day, featuring a striking array of designs that included wool herringbone blousons with armor-like elements, intricately pleated cotton trousers, and creatively designed accessories such as padded hats that morph into wearable gilets. His ability to elicit visual impact through innovative clothing construction has garnered praise, with Kostadinov himself stating, “The only way to create emotion is through the clothes.”
As Kostadinov continues to evolve as a designer, his explorations through vintage finds may continue to serve as pivotal sources of inspiration, further contributing to the distinctive identity of his brand as he navigates the future of fashion.
Source: Noah Wire Services
