New York: Luvanis is set to relaunch the legendary Herbert Levine shoe label, honouring its rich legacy while modernising designs for today’s market. Creative director Trevor Houston aims to blend tradition with contemporary needs, ensuring the new collection resonates with today’s fashion-conscious consumers.
Luvanis, a private investment firm dedicated to reviving high-end brands, is poised to bring back the iconic Herbert Levine label, originally established in 1948 by the influential New York couple Herbert and Beth Levine. This ambitious reboot aims to inject excitement into the luxury shoe market in America, a space that has seen fluctuations in creativity and innovation in recent years.
The relaunch, spearheaded by Arnaud de Lummen, Luvanis’s founder and managing director, alongside Trevor Houston, the creative director for Herbert Levine, seeks to honour the brand’s legacy while modernising its designs. Houston has emerged as a notable figure in New York’s shoe scene, having designed successful footwear for the likes of Khaite and The Row.
Trevor Houston began his journey in the footwear industry as an intern at Marc Jacobs in 2011. “Marc was obsessed with footwear. I learned everything so quickly. It really set off my interest in shoes and my obsession with structure and architecture and function,” Houston recounted in an interview. His deep appreciation for the Levines’ contributions to shoe design was pivotal in his acceptance of the project; the Luvanis team reached out to him after discovering his extensive collection of vintage shoes.
Beth Levine, often referred to as the “First Lady of Shoes,” was renowned for her innovative designs that transformed women’s footwear in the 1960s. She introduced fashion boots as a staple, created distinctive sculptural heels, and invented the ‘Spring-o-lator’ mule. Levine’s designs have adorned numerous icons, from Nancy Sinatra, who wore the white stiletto boots in the “These Boots Are Made For Walkin’” video, to Barbra Streisand in “Funny Girl.” Their influence persists, as various iconic stylists, including Manolo Blahnik and Christian Louboutin, have cited her work as seminal to their own design philosophies.
Although the original brand ceased operations in 1975, Beth Levine’s work continues to be celebrated in collections and exhibitions at institutions like the Metropolitan Museum of Art. That museum recently highlighted a 1966 design, the “Barefoot in the Grass” sandal, which was a striking feature of its spring ‘24 exhibition titled “Sleeping Beauties: Reawakening Fashion.”
De Lummen noted that the Herbert Levine brand ranks as the second most collected shoe label at the Met, only behind Roger Vivier. However, he emphasises that heritage alone is insufficient for a successful revival. He stated, “It’s having all the planets aligned to reintroduce something that is going to be relevant for the long term.”
The two-year design process has been meticulous, focusing on providing footwear that resonates with contemporary women’s needs. “It’s not about this crazy high heel. It’s actually about shoes that are worn and can go with a lot of things,” Houston explained. His collection aims to balance elegance with a modern edge, integrating updated designs derived from the original archives into a full range of shoes from boots to loafers.
In keeping with the brand’s commitment to craftsmanship, the team faced challenges replicating the intricate detailing that defined the original creations. Houston has collaborated with a factory in the Marche shoemaking region of Italy, ensuring that all shoes reflect Herbert Levine’s hallmark quality.
During a preview at New York Fashion Week, Houston showcased a collection steeped in the Levines’ legacy, with designs inspired by various aspects of their lives and influences, including the work of painter Milton Avery. His designs include whimsical elements, such as a grand green slipper adorned with a martini pin, highlighting a playful approach to footwear design.
The elevated craftsmanship extends to essential features, ensuring comfort and fit with the highest heel measuring just under 4 inches. A notable feature of his pumps is the insole marking, which commemorates both Beth and Herbert Levine by placing each namesake minutely on different shoes, symbolising their partnership—a unique touch given the historical tendency for shoe brands to be male-dominated.
As Herbert Levine prepares to enter a new era, Houston is optimistic about the potential for the brand to resonate in the current American market. “There’s definitely a space for something like this, in the American market especially,” he asserted, indicating his vision for footwear that evokes emotional connections with consumers, ensuring that the legacy of these revered designers continues to thrive. The new line is slated for retail release in the upcoming summer season and will be available through Massimo Bonini.
Source: Noah Wire Services
