Designer Marine Serre’s latest collection reflects her innovative vision, celebrating empowerment and eco-futurism while challenging traditional notions of value and aesthetics in fashion.
For the Fall/Winter 2025 collection, renowned designer Marine Serre showcased her innovative designs at La Monnaie de Paris, the historic institution dating back to 864 AD that serves as a central symbol of currency in the French capital. The choice of venue reflects the independent nature of Serre’s fashion house, presenting a counter-narrative in a fashion industry predominantly governed by financial metrics. Guests were engaged with a unique coin, featuring the moon on one side and Serre’s profile on the reverse. More than just a currency substitute, it served as a talisman, echoing the spirit of Marianne, a symbol associated with empowerment and liberty in French history.
The collection contributes to a pivotal moment in Serre’s career, coinciding with her 30th birthday and seven years of developing her eponymous brand. Emphasizing a mix of boldness and maturity, the collection comprises 47 distinct looks that merge elements of sensuality and strength. Silhouettes have seen a significant evolution, presenting both graceful and structured designs that draw inspiration from the femme fatale archetype depicted in both the 1950s and 1980s fashion eras.
Among the standout pieces is an iconic catsuit, worn by a character in a mask reminiscent of Irma Vep, an early cinematic heroine. This look embodies a second-skin concept through moon-tattooed leather that elegantly fits the wearer. Other noteworthy designs include a midi leather dress with futuristic shoulders and a structured couture gown crafted from upcycled biker leather. Leather prominently features throughout the collection, augmented by items such as the AURORA bag, MS CRUSH heels, and a jewelry collection that resonates with both tribal aesthetics and archetypal motifs.
Sustainable practices are interwoven throughout the collection, exemplifying eco-futurism. Serre’s commitment to upcycling transcends mere clothing, with special couture pieces reimagining coins, medals, antique watches, and repurposed furs. These designs challenge traditional notions of value, presenting items stripped of commercial significance alongside couture garments in a way that reinvigorates their ornamental appeal. The integration of watch bracelets into her designs raises contemplative questions about the measurement of time in a setting also defined by financial themes. Serre’s approach resembles a transgenerational archaeological excavation that brings history to the forefront in the name of eco-activism.
Color plays a defining role in the collection, marked by a progression from white to black with minimal color infusion, alongside a deep red that emanates energy reflecting passion and power. The carmine velvet tracksuit, tailored for the red carpet, exemplifies elegance in its fabric and sporty silhouette. Contributing to the collection’s thematic essence, elements are inspired by David Lynch’s “Twin Peaks,” specifically the series’ Red Room, a space characterized by temporal fluidity and logical disjunctions. Serre constructs a reality where the lines between truth and fiction are intentionally blurred, allowing garments to serve as conduits to alternate identities and aspirations.
Illusion serves as a predominant theme in this collection, with Serre ingeniously manipulating perceptions to create silhouettes where appearance and texture intersect. Innovations such as oversized puffer jackets—paying homage to fashion luminary André Leon Talley—exude confidence evocative of Chesterfield furniture. Additionally, a meticulously crafted trench coat evolves into a modular assembly of layered components, pushing the boundaries of classic wardrobe staples.
Marine Serre’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection presents a thoughtful exploration of radicality, structure, and grace, inviting observers to confront their perceptions and explore the tenuous nature of reality through the lens of fashion. Each piece within this collection acts as a narrative, reflecting a mature perspective from Serre, as well as an invitation to consider the interplay of tangible and illusory elements in contemporary design.
Source: Noah Wire Services
