Australian designer Martin Grant prepares for a career retrospective while showcasing his fall collection, emphasizing longevity, sustainability, and classic styles.
Australian designer Martin Grant has recently carved a path in the fashion world that emphasizes longevity and thoughtful design. As he gears up for a significant career retrospective set to launch in March at the National Gallery of Victoria in Melbourne, Grant made a notable stop in Paris to present his fall collection, which is described as a “greatest hits” showcase of his signature styles.
The fall collection features classic pieces such as pea jackets, trenchcoats, and wide-legged pants, embodying a sense of relaxed confidence. Following the closure of his showroom and atelier in Paris, Grant has relocated permanently to the South of France. Despite the geographical shift, he continues to collaborate with prominent retailers, including Moda Operandi, maintaining a presence in the fashion industry.
Instead of the traditional four collections a year, Grant opts for a more focused approach by producing just two collections annually. His method includes reimagining archival styles, integrating new fabrics and colors. This season showcases a vibrant mimosa yellow featured in a slightly oversized A-line pea jacket, as well as in a pencil skirt and belted wrap dress.
In discussing his design philosophy, Grant explained, “It’s not like the pressure of having to invent something new each season. Also, I’m using pretty much all stock fabrics. So it’s a nice, ethical way of working as well.” This sustainable practice extends to his sourcing of materials; having exhausted his remaining fabric supplies, he now collaborates with deadstock suppliers and has developed a keen recognition of the texture and quality of the materials through years of experience. “These companies, I’ve been working with them for so many years that you can just tell,” he added.
Grant’s unique approach to fabric has played a pivotal role in setting apart his collections, including distinct pieces like a double-breasted hourglass jacket crafted from wool and mohair, a military-inspired trench coat made from silk and wool, and an elegant taffeta midi skirt paired with a matching puff-sleeve pussy bow blouse.
As minimalism takes precedence in current fashion trends, the upcoming “Martin Grant” exhibition is poised to provide the first comprehensive overview of his career, tracing his evolution from the mid-1980s to the present day. His creations have found their way into the wardrobes of esteemed figures such as Cate Blanchett, Meghan Markle, and Queen Rania of Jordan. While Grant designs with the intent that his pieces are made to “last forever,” he acknowledges his clientele’s appreciation for his continued presence in fashion, offering forms that are both practical and coveted.
In reflecting on his audience’s desires, Grant said, “I know the pieces that they are looking for and that they go to and that they wear every day. It’s not just pieces that sit in the wardrobe and then come out every now and again.” As the fashion industry continues to evolve, Martin Grant’s influential work and his commitment to sustainability and timeless design remain salient features worth noting.
Source: Noah Wire Services
