Creative director Matteo Tamburini infuses the Autumn/Winter 2025 collection with a narrative of resilience inspired by the history of the Padiglione d’Arte Contemporanea in Milan.
Matteo Tamburini, the creative director for Tod’s, has taken a distinctive approach for the brand’s Autumn/Winter 2025 collection, drawing inspiration from the Padiglione d’Arte Contemporanea (PAC) in Milan, a modern art museum that has served as a show space for Tod’s for several years. Tamburini emphasized the significance of the venue, noting its complex history: “The story of the place is so fascinating,” he stated the day before the fashion show. He highlighted how the museum, originally built in the 1950s to embody postwar rationalism, suffered a devastating bombing by the Mafia in the 1990s—a violent act that symbolized an attack on Italian culture itself. On July 27, 1993, a Fiat Uno packed with explosives detonated outside PAC, completely destroying the building and marking a tumultuous chapter in Italy’s history.
Reflecting on this narrative of resilience, Tamburini commented, “There’s this idea of resilience, rebuilding from what you’ve been.” He aims to balance the acknowledgment of the past while creating something innovative for Tod’s, a brand known for its exceptional leather craftsmanship and rich Italian heritage.
Tamburini’s tenure at Tod’s is informed by a robust background in the fashion industry, having previously held key positions at Bottega Veneta where he honed his skills in tailoring and leather garments under different creative directors, as well as during his time at Rochas. He noted, “We’re trying to define what represented Tod’s in the past – and what can represent it in the future,” signaling a thoughtful engagement with the brand’s legacy.
The collection also reflects Tamburini’s interest in contemporary art. He utilized the museum as a means to explore the works of renowned Italian artists such as Carla Accardi, Alberto Burri, and Lucio Fontana. “We used it as an excuse to build up the storytelling,” he explained, indicating a desire to infuse artistic creativity into the garments, pushing beyond the traditional limits of leather.
The designs feature unique fabric techniques such as tufting and twisting, along with patchworking different materials like leather, suede, and ponyskin in monochromatic tones, suggesting a connection to the expressive techniques utilized by the artists he admires. For instance, designed elements inspired by Accardi’s swirling forms were depicted through brushed alpaca fabrics, while the textural patchwork drew parallels to Burri’s well-known ‘Plastiche’ artworks.
Through this collection, Tamburini endeavors to marry the concepts of Italy’s rich artistic history with the innovative craftsmanship that Tod’s is celebrated for. His vision for Tod’s is ultimately about reinterpreting the brand’s foundational elements while carving a path into the future of luxury fashion.
Source: Noah Wire Services
