Milan: The Milan Men’s Fashion Week featured a stunning transition towards vintage-inspired menswear, drawing from ‘mob wife’ trends, with showcases from brands like Dolce & Gabbana and Prada, emphasising luxurious fabrics and bold styles, signalling a new era in men’s fashion for autumn/winter 2025.
The Milan Men’s Fashion Week has showcased a notable shift in menswear, heavily inspired by vintage aesthetics and the distinctive ‘mob wife’ phenomenon that has gained traction on social media platforms such as TikTok. Vintage or faux-fur coats, extravagant jewellery, and oversized eyewear once adorned the wardrobes of Gen Z and millennial women, but this ostentatious style has now made an indelible mark on men’s fashion.
The recent showcases have drawn their influence from classic cinematic depictions of the mob life, particularly from iconic films like The Godfather and The Sopranos. Pharrell Williams’ Louis Vuitton collection for 2024/25, featuring floor-length dusters, set a spectacular tone that resonated throughout the subsequent presentations from notable brands such as Emporio Armani, Dolce & Gabbana, and Prada, each embracing the luxurious appeal of materials like fur, velvet, and pinstriped tailoring.
Dolce & Gabbana’s opening show, aptly named ‘Paparazzi’, resonated with grandeur. The term “paparazzo,” originating from Federico Fellini’s La Dolce Vita (1960), was reflected in a striking display where models paraded through a throng of hyper-stylish faux paparazzi. Breaking away from previous seasons’ tailored looks, the designers Stefano Gabbana and Domenico Dolce embraced the relaxed yet extravagant charm reminiscent of the 1960s. Daywear featured casual utilitarian styles infused with glamorous flourishes, including voluminous faux-furs.
As the show progressed, it transitioned seamlessly into sharp tuxedos and silk shirts, perhaps signalling the approach of the awards season and a shift towards more refined elegance.
Emporio Armani concluded the Saturday evening festivities with a revealing collection comprising 111 looks that exemplified chic craftsmanship. The show began with a skiwear segment filled with innovative technical elements and organically dyed fabrics, swiftly transitioning into metallic tailoring and velvet ensembles. As part of this evolution of the ‘mob husband’ aesthetic, the designs showcased an array of elements, including skinny scarves, leopard loafers, and nonchalant yet alluring styles that challenge the traditional boundaries of menswear.
The allure of rich velvets, eye-catching embellishments, and layered leather added a captivating atmosphere to the event, evoking an image of models amidst the smoky ambience of a vintage jazz bar.
Culminating the week’s showcase was Prada, whose impressive set featuring three-storey scaffolding created a unique spatial dynamic. Co-creative director Raf Simons stated, “We do not want to limit ourselves,” a philosophy that resonated throughout the collection. The integration of pyjama-style trousers with crewneck knits contrasted vividly with bold Seventies floral patterns and crumpled silks, further presenting a compelling interpretation of contemporary masculinity.
Through these diverse influences, the shows at Milan Fashion Week highlighted a common thread: the presence of animal accents, luxurious fabrics, and fluid silhouettes that describe a modern interpretation of the mob look. Ranging from Ralph Lauren’s wool-focused offerings to the faux fur and cow prints showcased by Prada, the autumn/winter 2025 menswear is poised to encapsulate themes of opulence and comfort, appealing to those who appreciate the artistry of both vintage inspiration and modern design.
Source: Noah Wire Services
