New York: This year’s New York Fashion Week highlights an array of fresh talent and innovative designs influenced by retro styles, with standout labels like Colleen Allen and Patricio Campillo promising to shape the future of fashion while celebrating its rich history.
New York Fashion Week is currently underway, showcasing a vibrant collection of talent amid the crisp February air. This edition appears distinct, influenced by a variety of factors, including the much-anticipated return of Calvin Klein’s runway collection and the impressive display of Thom Browne designs worn by Doechii during her Grammy performance. The recent fluctuations in creative leadership within the fashion industry also contribute to a sense of renewal and excitement surrounding this year’s presentations.
The event is particularly notable for the emergence of innovative designers who embody the spirit of New York through edgy, sleek, and rebellious ready-to-wear collections. Emerging brands garner attention for their fresh interpretations of vintage styles, hinting at a revival of retro fashion trends that resonate with contemporary audiences. Here are some of the standout labels to watch this season.
Colleen Allen is one such designer, debuting her womenswear collection for autumn/winter 2024 in a striking array of colours, including orange, red, and magenta, combined with a classic vintage white. Her work emits both power and softness, showcasing a modern take on femininity while drawing inspiration from a Victorian heritage. Allen, who has previously interned with Raf Simons at Calvin Klein, focuses on fine minimalism and high-quality materials, creating pieces that reflect luxury in everyday wear.
Meruert Tolegen, whose designs were first introduced at Paris Fashion Week in 2022, brings an old-world charm through billowing skirts, ruffled collars, and micro-floral patterns. Her collection, recently featured in Lady Gaga’s “Disease” music video, is inspired by gothic elements that resonate with a whimsical narrative.
Another notable emerging designer is Patricio Campillo, who founded menswear label Campillo in 2017. Rooted in his Mexican heritage, Campillo’s contemporary designs incorporate traditional aesthetics paired with a commitment to sustainability and ethical manufacturing practices. His recognition as a semi-finalist for the prestigious 2024 LVMH Prize highlights his growing influence within the industry.
Jane Wade, known for her innovative approach to workwear, transforms conventional office attire into bold and practical designs. Her creations, which include tailored trousers and unique button-down shirts, utilising strategic zippers and snaps, blend practicality with a contemporary flair, appealing to those seeking a departure from traditional office wear.
Daniella Kallmeyer has established a reputation since launching her eponymous brand in 2012. Based in New York’s Lower East Side, her designs cater to women of diverse lifestyles, combining sleek lines with both masculine and feminine elements. Kallmeyer’s aesthetic is noted for its chicness, making her a favourite among public figures like Gwyneth Paltrow and Katie Holmes.
Founded in 2021, Rachel Scott’s label Diotima showcases the beauty of Jamaican craftsmanship and heritage through modern silhouettes and intricate detailing. The brand’s recognition as a semi-finalist for the 2023 LVMH prize echoes its artisanal appeal, accentuated by Scott’s background in philosophy and art.
Zoe Gustavia Anna Whalen prioritises individuality in her designs, producing limited-edition pieces crafted from deadstock fabrics. Her vision brings Victorian elements into play while challenging the norms of contemporary fashion with striking geometric silhouettes and bold shapes.
Trish Wescoat Pound’s label, TWP, draws from her Midwest upbringing while marrying it with the contemporary pulse of New York City. Since its launch in 2021, TWP has developed a distinctive identity that balances utilitarian workwear and modern sensibility, with all pieces manufactured locally.
Lastly, Svitlana Bevza’s brand, established in 2006, has garnered significant attention for its blend of minimalism and elegant design. Her work reflects her Ukrainian heritage, incorporating cultural motifs while ensuring local production in Kyiv.
As New York Fashion Week unfolds, these emerging designers exemplify a rich history of vintage-inspired fashion while contributing to the evolving landscape of modern collections. Their interpretations echo historic moments and trends, ensuring that timeless fashion remains relevant in today’s fast-paced industry.
Source: Noah Wire Services
