In an exclusive preview, Paul Andrew shares his creative direction for Sergio Rossi, highlighting a blend of tradition and modernity in his upcoming collection.

Paul Andrew, the newly appointed creative director of the renowned Italian footwear brand Sergio Rossi, provided an exclusive preview of his vision for the label at its Milan showroom. During this event, Andrew expressed his enthusiasm for his new role, stating, “This is such an exciting moment in my life,” and sharing that this experience feels particularly rewarding, especially as he has worked with many other brands throughout his career.

Andrew’s appointment comes after a notable tenure as the creative lead at Ferragamo, from which he departed in 2021. He joined Sergio Rossi last July, under the management of parent company Lanvin Group, and is now embarking on a creative journey that seeks to meld the brand’s historical innovations with contemporary design sensibilities.

One of Andrew’s first initiatives was a visit to the brand’s factory and archive located in San Mauro Pascoli, Italy. He described the facility as “extraordinary” and “uber-modern,” having been built by the Gucci Group in the early 2000s. This modern space is said to house an impressive array of technology and craftsmanship—hallmarks of the brand’s founder, Sergio Rossi. “The things that Sergio invented are truly extraordinary, like the pull-on boots, for example,” Andrew remarked, emphasizing the blend of craft, art, and technology that he aims to uphold as his design philosophy.

A highlight of the upcoming collection is a bold, carbon fiber shoe characterized by its super-lightweight and architectural structure, described by Andrew as almost futuristic. The designer assured that comfort was a priority, attributing this focus to the original patented arch design created by Rossi, which he intends to maintain as part of the brand’s DNA.

To push the brand forward, Andrew introduced a new group of footwear named “Surge,” consisting of slingbacks, slide sandals, and slip-on loafers with rubber inlays. This collection is expected to hit stores around May or June. In addition, Andrew plans to implement a fresh concept for the store displays and packaging, incorporating a new aqua-mint color previously used by Rossi in the 1990s. This hue will feature prominently in the shoe linings and several items in both men’s and women’s collections, alongside a newly designed monogram.

The upcoming line includes several innovative styles, such as micro-kitten heels on slingbacks and repositioned pyramid-like shapes leading to a square-point toe design, notably used on eel-skin booties crafted from deadstock materials. Andrew is also committed to sustainability, mentioning, “I am doing a lot of work with sustainability and upcycling.”

Further diversifying the collection, Andrew showcased sandals embellished with Swarovski crystals, rhinestones, and beads strung on durable nylon wires, which are designed to drape on the foot akin to jewelry. He has introduced a new chain design, referred to as “spine,” signaling potential future product expansions into accessories and perhaps jewelry.

Andrew noted the incorporation of the Martini heel—an original design by Sergio Rossi—with an enhanced take on its traditional elegance, represented in crinkled patent leather sandals adorned with rhinestones. He emphasized his intent for the designs to be versatile enough for wear from “desk to dinner.”

Moreover, the designer reimagined traditional Sergio Rossi cone heels and showcased boots featuring a hand-applied cascade of super-thin studs, as well as a zebra print—a motif long favored by the brand’s founder.

The collection also includes playful elements, such as boots and flat sandals featuring Mongolian lamb fur. Andrew remarked on the popularity of such styles, suggesting that consumers are eager to embrace fun and excitement in their footwear choices. As he noted about current fashion trends, “I think we need some joy,” pointing out a balance between luxury and a desire for more vibrant expressions in style during these times.

Source: Noah Wire Services