Irish designer Paul Costelloe takes inspiration from Princess Diana and equestrian traditions in a stunning collection showcased at London Fashion Week.
Irish designer Paul Costelloe showcased his autumn/winter 2025 collection during London Fashion Week, held at the luxurious Waldorf Hilton Hotel in London. At 79 years old, Costelloe, who gained fame as the personal designer for Diana, Princess of Wales, employed themes reminiscent of Princess Diana’s race-day attire in his latest presentation.
The collection was presented against a backdrop of Celtic music, emphasizing Costelloe’s heritage as he incorporated traditional fabrics such as heavy Magees from Ireland and Harris Tweed from Scotland. This integration of Celtic accents highlighted the designer’s commitment to blending classic and contemporary styles, a signature of his work that was evident in the elegant outerwear presented.
Drawing inspiration from the elite sport of dressage, Costelloe’s designs reflected the volume, space, and energy characteristic of this hobby. The collection featured a mix of sumptuous flowing gowns, ruffled miniskirts, and pluming wool coats, offering a modern interpretation of equestrian fashion. The color palette comprised rich chestnut browns, creamy whites, berry reds, and deep forest greens.
Costelloe’s use of bold prints was notable, including minidresses and evening gowns adorned with vintage photographs of showjumping and dressage scenes. The collection also echoed the aesthetics of the 1980s with elements such as full-waisted belts, broad shoulder lines, and striking prints, reminiscent of Jilly Cooper’s aristocratic novels set in the Cotswolds.
As a nod to the resurgence of equestrian style in high fashion, reflected in recent collections from top designers, Costelloe’s lineup included riding blazers and culottes paired with dainty stilettos and wool stockings. The combination of thick-waisted skirts and suspenders with evening gloves created an intriguing blend of traditional riding attire and modern glamour.
Accessories were a key focus, with saddle bags crafted from full-grain leather, wide belts, and fingerless riding gloves complementing the sophisticated country theme. Beauty looks designed by Toni & Guy’s Cos Sakkas featured braided ponytails with slicked side parts, mirroring the elegance of dressage horses.
The show concluded with a standing ovation, an infrequent occurrence at London Fashion Week, as the heartfelt tune “we must say goodbye” played throughout the venue. Supermodel Jodie Kidd expressed her admiration for Costelloe’s work, stating, “I thought the prints were amazing… [the collection] was cut beautifully, elegant, and sophisticated yet sexy.” She emphasized her connection to the equestrian world, adding, “I thought he just smashed it – it was my dream collection – anything countryside-esque while being beautifully designed.”
Source: Noah Wire Services
