Lynne Coleman and designer Marie Bruhat are merging tradition with modernity in their innovative Fair Isle knitwear project, utilizing cashmere to elevate Scottish craftsmanship.
In a journey that intertwines the personal and professional, Lynne Coleman’s current project revolves around her passion for Fair Isle knitwear, marking a significant revival of the tradition combined with a modern approach. Coleman, who initially experienced the rugged waters of Scotland aboard a sailing trip on the Alba Venture, reflects on how that expedition influenced her lifelong love for natural fibers, particularly as she works to create Fair Isle knits made from cashmere instead of traditional Shetland wool.
Coleman’s participation in the millennium-themed sail, which aimed to connect underprivileged youth with the splendor of Scotland’s coastline, is a pivotal memory for her. As she reminisces about encountering the famous Shetland wool jumpers, specifically a cherry red one priced at £10, she recalls, “I begged and borrowed from fellow crew members to buy it.” This moment not only sparked her fashion interest as a teenager but has also remained impactful over the years.
Now, as an authority on Scottish fashion, Coleman is set to contribute her expertise in an upcoming documentary, “Icons of Style,” airing on BBC Scotland. Speaking on the significance of Scottish cashmere, she remarked, “Anyone can make cashmere… What made ours stand out was partly that we got really lucky with having the best geographically soft water on the planet.” This unique advantage allows for the creation of high-quality cashmere products, a point she passionately expands upon in the documentary.
Currently residing in Guernsey and collaborating with Fair Isle designer Marie Bruhat, Coleman is taking significant strides toward introducing a new cashmere range. Bruhat, who relocated from the fashion scene in Paris to embrace the tranquil lifestyle of Fair Isle, has carved her niche by creating knits that respect traditional patterns while integrating modern materials. “I think I wanted to escape Parisian life… That’s why I had the idea to come to Fair Isle,” she stated, indicating a desire for a life rooted in craftsmanship.
Coleman’s innovative concept to use cashmere sourced from Scottish manufacturer Todd & Duncan, transforms the traditional Shetland designs into luxurious, soft garments. This will be the first line of Fair Isle-inspired knitwear commercially produced with cashmere, with plans to launch in the summer.
Bruhat, whose responsibilities range from crofting to designing, emphasizes the longstanding heritage of Fair Isle knitting that dates back to the 18th century. Her commitment to maintaining traditions while responding to modern market preferences is evident in her work. “The feedback from the market is that Shetland wool is not soft enough,” she said, recognizing the demand for softer materials in contemporary fashion.
Despite working with cashmere, Bruhat aims to stay connected to Fair Isle’s rich history through her patterns, ensuring that her designs reflect the legacy of the craft. Her dedication is matched by the challenges of running a small-scale production, where meticulous craftsmanship is paramount. “It takes me between ten and fifteen hours to complete the machine knit, and a further ten to sew the jumper together,” she explained, illustrating the extensive labor involved in each piece.
The anticipated cashmere knitwear line developed by Coleman and Bruhat is anticipated to come at a premium price, reflecting the quality of the materials and the intricate labor involved. While Coleman notes that the cashmere yarn itself retails for £200 per kilogram, she acknowledges the perspective that accompanies high-quality fashion items, stating, “It’s not throwaway. It’s not something that should be disregarded or considered easy.”
As both designers prepare for the upcoming launch and anticipate the reception of their innovative products, their joint venture not only honors the craftsmanship of Fair Isle but also elevates the standards of contemporary knitwear in the fashion industry.
Source: Noah Wire Services
