Roksanda Ilincic showcased her latest collection in London, drawing inspiration from artist Phyllida Barlow and emphasizing sustainable practices with unique materials.
Roksanda Ilincic showcased her latest collection on October 2, 2023, at a presentation held on the 17th floor of Space House, a refurbished venue dating back to the 1960s located in Covent Garden, London. The show, marked by its stunning views—clouds permitting—featured designs that emphasized unconventional color combinations and oversized silhouettes.
Ilincic drew inspiration from the late British artist and sculptor Phyllida Barlow, renowned for her use of leftover and everyday materials, including cardboard, fabric, and plaster, to create impactful large-scale works. This approach aligns with the current trend toward sustainable fashion and a mindset focused on recycling and reusing materials, particularly among younger consumers.
In preparation for the collection, Ilincic utilized leftover materials primarily sourced from her spring 2023 line. The designer incorporated deadstock elements such as melton wool, paper, raffia, viscose, and large, stiff squares of sponge into her creations. These innovative materials contributed to the distinctive sculptural and abstract aesthetic seen throughout the presentation.
Highlighting the collection further were garments fashioned from floppy sponge panels, which appeared to float gracefully around the models’ waists and necks. Additionally, a range of ragged-edged fil coupe dresses, coats, and tunic tops presented a unique visual dynamic that evoked playful imagery reminiscent of Silly String. Ilincic explained that she intentionally left the colorful fil coupe threads “free and loose” to allow them to fall in various ways, creating abstract sculptures in motion.
The overall presentation captured an artistic vibe, evident in standout pieces like a sheer, airy gown composed of a patchwork in shades of lavender, yellow, and cornflower blue. The collection also showcased an array of beautifully crafted pink dresses, some enhanced by intricate painterly designs.
However, not all designs maintained a delicate aesthetic. Certain collaged creations, including layered dresses, headpieces, and long belts made from substantial sequins, introduced a heavier element that produced audible rustling as models walked. Oversized jackets with sheer black panels and a plush-backed coat appeared particularly voluminous, presenting a somewhat comical effect on the women wearing them.
While the oversized proportions aptly conveyed an artistic essence more suitable for a gallery setting, it is anticipated that adjustments will be necessary before these pieces transition from the runway to retail, ensuring they maintain both artistic integrity and wearability.
Source: Noah Wire Services
