Paris: Designer Anthony Vaccarello’s latest collection for Saint Laurent invokes the 1980s through a captivating blend of vintage styles and modern sensibilities, celebrating the legacies of Yves Saint Laurent and Robert Mapplethorpe while addressing cultural narratives and challenges of the era.
In a recent showcase by Saint Laurent, designer Anthony Vaccarello tapped into the retro pulse of fashion while reflecting on the cultural tensions of the early 1980s. The Autumn/Winter 2025 menswear show, held in a venue reminiscent of Saint Laurent’s illustrious past, was infused with echoes of a significant moment where the worlds of fashion and artistry converged. Vaccarello’s artistic vision was inspired by an imaginary encounter between two titans of their respective fields – Yves Saint Laurent and photographer Robert Mapplethorpe.
The atmosphere backstage was charged with a palpable sense of nostalgia, as Vaccarello merged the aesthetics of the two icons to create a collection that bridged classical elegance with avant-garde edge. Describing his dual inspirations, Vaccarello remarked that the fusion of “business” and “fetishistic fantasies” epitomised the contrasting elements of both figures. Models sported attire that echoed Saint Laurent’s tailoring prowess atop bold choices rooted in Mapplethorpe’s provocative style. Looks featured sharply tailored tops, with flowing skirts that conflated traditional menswear with a distinctly modern, edgy sensibility.
Designed with a nod towards the infamous 1963 ‘Robin Hood’ collection, the ensemble included beyond-thigh-high leather waders that complemented Mapplethorpe’s aesthetic, capturing the essence of his characteristic bravado while grounding it in Saint Laurent’s sophisticated legacy. The show featured a prominent moodboard, displaying a Menswear editorial captured by Mapplethorpe himself, which served as both homage and inspiration amidst purposeful historical context.
Evening wear at the show sported luxurious feather-lined coats and tufted collars, honouring the iconic couture of Saint Laurent while paying tribute to the influences that shaped his vision. The designs resonated with the intricate tapestry of the era, laden with the undercurrents of societal challenges, not least the impact of the Aids epidemic that tragically claimed the lives of many within the creative community, including Mapplethorpe.
Fashion historians note that collections like these are not just reflections of style, but serve as a significant narrative that connects past and present. Realistic portrayals of the original designs reveal how such vintage aesthetics can be reinterpreted and served as a wellspring of inspiration for contemporary celebrity wardrobes. From haute couture to modern red carpet events, the infusion of retro influences is evident, as figures in pop culture increasingly draw upon styles from iconic fashion epochs to enhance their public personas.
The evolution of vintage fashion’s impact on today’s celebrities illustrates a cyclical trend where the artistry of name-brand designers coalesces with the brilliance of historical fashion movements. This connection underscores the important role of fashion historians in curating the narrative of clothing, demonstrating how archival research and knowledge can redefine current and future trends.
In all, Vaccarello’s Autumn/Winter show was not merely an exploration of fashion; it was a testament to the enduring influence of vintage aesthetics and the craftsmanship of iconic designers. The collection moves beyond mere clothing, engaging with the rich tapestry of cultural history while simultaneously shaping the contemporary style landscape.
Source: Noah Wire Services
