Paris: The Spring/Summer 2025 collection by Schiaparelli showcases the interplay of mythology and modern design, with dramatic pieces inspired by Icarus. Creative director Daniel Roseberry emphasises rich symbolism and extravagant craftsmanship, redefining contemporary fashion aesthetics influenced by historical styles.
Haute couture is increasingly recognised as a medium for storytelling through fashion, illustrated vividly in the recent Spring/Summer 2025 collection from renowned French couture house Schiaparelli. Creative director Daniel Roseberry has aptly named the collection “Icarus,” drawing inspiration from Greek mythology to offer audiences a narrative escape.
Hosted at the Petit Palais, the fashion show featured a runway concept that included reflective pools created from flattened golden metal, evoking the tale of Icarus, who flew too close to the sun and met a tragic end. The carefully designed runway set the perfect stage for the couture pieces, which married historical fashion references with modern craftsmanship. Roseberry’s bold vision challenges the notion that modern fashion must adhere to minimalist principles, demonstrating that innovation can thrive through extravagance as much as through simplicity.
The collection showcases a series of captivating looks, each steeped in symbolism and rich design. One of the standout pieces is a striking bustier gown, its sun-like design referencing the very celestial body Icarus was drawn to. Constructed from duchess butter satin ribbons, the piece contrasts with black velvet accents inspired by the fashion trends of the 1920s and 1930s. When presented on the catwalk, the draped ribbons create a fluid effect, resembling liquid movement—a detail that Roseberry has expertly honed in his recent work. To elevate this look further, a black velvet flower bracelet made of the same material as the gown adds an elegant finishing touch.
Another remarkable design is a long, off-the-shoulder bustier gown that pays homage to Icarus while simultaneously referencing the iconic Dior New Look of the 1950s. This dress features a cinched waist and is crafted from ecru Chantilly lace, adorned with organza and enamel flowers that recall the imagery of feathers, reminiscent of Icarus’ wings. The gown transitions into fluttering ruffles made of ivory mousseline, crepeline, organza, and tulle, designed to sway softly and evoke the flight of Icarus before his inevitable fall. A silver minaudière adds a subtle nod to the vintage aesthetic, inspired by Elsa Schiaparelli’s signature cigarette case.
Further exploring the interplay between modernity and nostalgia, Roseberry designed a piece exemplifying the desire for a contemporary feel whilst retaining an antique allure. This gown is structured with padded hips to create the appearance of an even smaller waist and features a double-bustier complemented by petal-shaped embroidery in silk, cotton, and enamel. Adding to its vintage vibe, beaded fringes depicting lush flower bouquets adorn the design, which also showcases emblems synonymous with the Schiaparelli brand. Completing the look is a dramatic butter satin duchess train that adds a striking contrast and reinforces the collection’s museum-like splendour.
One final highlight includes a gown inspired by feminine fashion from the 1950s, featuring a two-tone palette. This dress presents a velvet high-neck top with a minimalist bareback, paired with a butter satin circle skirt intricately embroidered with floral elements and signatures of Schiaparelli, striking a balance between historical influence and modern refinement.
Through this collection, Roseberry continues to affirm the profound impact of vintage fashion on contemporary celebrity style, shifting the spotlight on how historical fashion inspirations inform modern aesthetics. This exploration of retro design not only informs the current fashion landscape but also illustrates the broader influence of fashion historians, who play a vital role in guiding today’s leading style figures.
Source: Noah Wire Services
