Smaller fashion and accessory brands faced significant challenges at this year’s trade shows, with buyers hesitating amid economic uncertainty and potential U.S. tariffs looming over the industry.

During Paris Fashion Week, the smaller fashion and accessory brands faced significant challenges at the trade shows Première Classe, Tranoï, and Woman, which took place over the weekend. The state of high-end retail, combined with a hesitant luxury market, has led to tough conditions for many exhibitors. Major buyers have increasingly opted to forgo these trade shows, pending decisions on their budgets for the season, which are primarily allocated for January during men’s collections.

Christina Rothmann Johansen, of Gazata boutique in Copenhagen, noted that consumer reluctance to spend has prompted a focus on safe pieces. “They’re looking for more safe pieces, but we want to challenge them,” she stated. Despite the hesitance of buyers, Rothmann hinted that her boutique saves a budget for special pieces at this later show in the season, which echoes the sentiments of many exhibitors. John Webb of Great Highway Showroom, representing brands like Handvaerk and Chimala at Woman, also confirmed the trend: “A lot of women’s buyers are asking us to move shows to January,” he explained, indicating a significant shift in purchasing strategy.

Woman’s show featured around 40 brands at a new venue east of République, and co-founder Antoine Floch described the season as complex but with promising buyer engagement. “It’s been quite calm, but with good buyers coming through,” he remarked, stating that the January shows proved to attract substantial interest.

At Tranoï, South African designer David Tlale expressed disappointment at the reduced traffic, describing it as “the slowest I’ve ever seen it.” He noted broader market difficulties that have affected retail over the past several months. Retail veteran Beth Bogulski, who owns the Millie + Madge boutique in New York, reported that her clientele is looking for unique pieces that offer a story, emphasizing the need for quality and versatility in an uncertain market.

The specter of potential U.S. tariffs loomed large over the discussions among brands and buyers, introducing a layer of anxiety. Boris Provost, CEO of Tranoï, noted an uptick in interest from brands in Canada and Latin America, aiming to mitigate risks associated with the U.S. market.

Anna Palubicka of Polish jewelry label 10 Decoart emphasized the hesitation of U.S. buyers to place orders, driven by uncertainty over final costs impacted by possible tariffs. “They have the wholesale price, but they don’t know how much they will ultimately pay,” she explained. The U.S. has historically been a significant market for her brand, leading her to pivot focus towards Asia.

Among the exhibitors, various brands showcased unique offerings aimed at engaging a discerning market:

1. La Caterina presented a line of contemporary jewelry crafted from vintage spoons and deadstock materials, with wholesale prices ranging from 80 to 300 euros.

2. Diane, known for eveningwear, revealed voluminous silhouettes made from colorful silk crêpe and tulle, with retail prices between 275 and 1,300 euros.

3. Christine Phung offered ready-to-wear pieces and accessories inspired by artist archetypes, featuring shirts priced from 150 to 180 euros.

4. Düttmann Design debuted a sculptural belt priced at 850 euros, showcasing a design combining fashion and art, with ambitions to evolve into a minimalist apparel collection.

5. Studio Caro displayed iconic handbag designs crafted from high-end deadstock leather, with prices ranging from 1,900 to 3,200 euros.

6. Mathilde Hiron showcased her hybrid designs at Tranoï, mixing art and fashion with retail prices from 80 to 2,000 euros, positioning her pieces as “wearable sculptures.”

Despite a reported 12% increase in visitor numbers at Première Classe from the previous year, the scale of offerings diminished by a third, with approximately 250 brands participating. Frédéric Maus, CEO of WSN, highlighted that the focus has shifted toward accessories, emphasizing the need to refine the selection further.

As the fashion industry navigates these turbulent waters, exhibitors continue to seek innovative strategies and creative designs to attract buyers amidst shifting market dynamics and uncertainties surrounding future trade relations, particularly with the United States.

Source: Noah Wire Services