Accra: Janet and Grace navigate Kantamanto Market, the world’s largest second-hand clothing hub, where the intersection of global waste and local economies unveils the complexities of our fashion consumption habits amidst a growing waste crisis impacting communities and sustainability efforts.
On Wednesday mornings in Accra, Ghana, Janet and Grace engage in the meticulous task of purchasing bundles of pre-owned clothing imported from various parts of the world. Their day primarily revolves around sifting through these heaps to identify items that are salvageable and saleable among the discarded garments. These efforts take place in the Kantamanto Market, the largest second-hand clothing market globally, spanning a remarkable 24 acres in the bustling heart of the city. Here, around 30,000 individuals, many of whom share their vocation as sellers, navigate the same expansive space, all vying for the opportunity to extract valuable pieces from the same piles of used apparel.
The freight that arrives at Kantamanto Market consists chiefly of items deemed unsuitable for charity outlets such as the Salvation Army in North America and the UK. This merchandise, rather than ending up in landfills, is dispatched to nations like Ghana, where local communities, including Janet and Grace, take on the responsibility of managing these textiles. The economic survival of these sellers heavily relies on every piece of clothing that can be priced for resale, given the costs they incur for stall rental and the acquisition of these substantial bundles.
Despite the appearance of a beneficial cycle—whereby individuals in the West donate their unwanted clothing instead of discarding it, thereby providing low-cost options for those in need—this situation is layered with complexity. The current global fashion waste crisis is exacerbated by a decline not only in the quality of clothing but also by relentless consumption patterns. According to a recent report from the United States Slow Fashion Caucus, the volume of textile waste has surged by 50% over the past eight years while the clothing manufactured tends to use cheaper, fossil fuel-based materials, alongside deteriorating construction techniques resulting from stringent cost-cutting measures in production facilities. The report further highlights that certain fast fashion brands intentionally produce lower-quality items, encouraging consumers to buy continually.
Branson Skinner, cofounder of the Or Foundation—a nonprofit organisation based in Accra focused on addressing the detrimental issues stemming from overproduction—asserts that while some communities attempt to recycle clothing, the volume and quality of deliverable materials are decreasing significantly. “Certain communities have tried to recirculate clothes, but they are getting less and less material they can do that with—which is ultimately impacting the quality of clothes here too,” Skinner noted.
This ongoing scenario in Kantamanto Market reflects larger trends in upcycling, zero-waste initiatives, and sustainable fashion dialogues worldwide. The importance of embracing second-hand clothing and promoting slow fashion is becoming increasingly recognised as a method to lessen environmental footprints associated with clothing production and disposal. These movements empower consumers to embrace sustainable fashion choices while maintaining an emphasis on aesthetic appeal, as evidenced by the bustling marketplace where Janet and Grace earn their livelihood amidst a significant waste crisis. As the fashion industry faces scrutiny regarding its environmental impact, the complexities of places like Kantamanto highlight the need for a deeper understanding of how global consumption habits affect local economies and communities.
Source: Noah Wire Services
