The film ‘The Conclave’ garners attention not just for its narrative but also for its striking costumes, which reflect a rich history of ecclesiastical fashion, as it heads toward the Oscars.
The upcoming Oscars have gained significant buzz, particularly surrounding the film “The Conclave,” which delves into the clandestine maneuvers of cardinals as they gather in the Vatican to elect a new pope. This film has already garnered several prestigious accolades, including best direction, script, lead role, editing, and best acting ensemble, leading to heightened anticipation as awards season progresses.
Despite its critical acclaim in various categories, the film has been noted for its visual splendor, particularly in the attire donned by the clerical characters. The costumes feature striking elements such as ankle-length clerical robes in rich hues of ruby red, jet black, and crisp white, complemented by intricately designed crosses and stylish eyewear. This visual aesthetic draws heavily on historical references to the fashion worn by Catholic clergy, marked by opulence and intricate detailing.
Lisy Christl, the costume designer for “The Conclave,” shared her insights with the New York Times, expressing her dissatisfaction with the current fabrics used in modern priestly garments. “I don’t want to be disrespectful, but the fabrics are terrible,” she remarked, highlighting how they fail to provide a dignified silhouette and instead resemble “curtains.” In contrast, the film’s garb utilizes luxurious wool and a more tailored approach that accentuates the shape and color, steering clear of the flimsy materials often seen in contemporary religious attire.
The film’s aesthetic vision appears to align with a broader trend in fashion, drawing inspiration from established designers. Notably, Christl mentioned that the collections from Balenciaga, particularly its spring and summer 2020 lineup, significantly influenced the design choices for “The Conclave.” The collection featured minimalist yet exaggerated silhouettes, which resonated with the vision of the film’s director, Edward Berger. “Go for it!” Berger exclaimed when he saw Christl’s ideas derived from Balenciaga’s avant-garde approach.
Balenciaga’s founder, Cristóbal Balenciaga, a devout Catholic, integrated elements of religious attire into his haute couture designs. Throughout his career, Balenciaga was recognized as a perfectionist within the fashion industry, and his unique blend of religious inspiration and high fashion has left a lasting legacy that continues to influence modern design.
The thematic exploration of clothing is not limited to the film itself but extends into the historical context of papal attire. Pope Francis, who ascended to papal office in March 2013, famously refused to wear white trousers during his papacy for personal and stylistic reasons, illustrating the ongoing conversation regarding the intersection of fashion and religious identity. In his book “Hope,” he indicated that he did not wish to “look like an ice cream seller.”
The attention to detail in the costumes of “The Conclave” not only serves to highlight the film’s dramatic narrative but also invites viewers to consider the ongoing relationship between fashion and religious symbolism, which has been a complex tapestry since the early days of their intertwining histories. As the film continues to make waves, it stands poised to be a significant contender at the Oscars, contributing to the dialogue surrounding the artistic representation of faith and style in cinema.
Source: Noah Wire Services
