As consumers engage in spring cleaning, the quality of donated clothing for secondhand markets in Germany faces significant challenges, impacting both non-profits and textile recyclers.
As winter lingers, many individuals are actively engaging in spring cleaning, assessing their closets for clothing items that are no longer favored or worn. The practice involves determining which items can be sold on secondhand platforms like eBay or Momox, with a preference for popular brands. Alternatively, garments such as pants and sweaters may be donated to charitable organizations, including Oxfam shops, which welcome seasonal clothing contributions.
While the act of sorting donations usually comes with the expectation that items will be clean and in good condition, reports from operators of secondhand boutiques indicate this is not universally the case. Many organizations, both non-profit and commercial, are voicing concerns regarding the quality of textiles collected through public donation containers.
In Germany, the German Red Cross (DRK) and other textile recyclers, such as Texaid based in Darmstadt, play significant roles in collecting used clothing. According to the Association of Municipal Enterprises, around two-thirds of textile waste in Germany is gathered via containers set up by municipalities. In Frankfurt, the waste management subsidiary FES oversees approximately 25 clothing containers, which are among an estimated 1,000 in the city—more than 400 belonging to the DRK District Association of Frankfurt, which also operates two secondhand shops.
“The quality has steadily declined in recent years,” stated a DRK spokesperson, expressing concerns about contaminated containers and improper items being discarded. Recent European Union regulations aimed at enhancing recycling rates by mandating separate collection of used textiles have also been met with some confusion. These regulations were designed for countries lacking comprehensive textile collection systems, but in Germany, they have led some consumers to stop placing non-wearable items into clothing containers, resulting in increased contamination of otherwise usable textiles.
Texaid’s managing director, Thomas Böschen, highlights that around 15 percent of the textiles sorted by his company, which amounts to approximately 35,000 to 40,000 tons annually, are incinerated. In contrast, 25 percent is repurposed into cleaning rags or insulation material, while about 60 percent is sold as secondhand goods. Unfortunately, he notes that the quality of recyclable textiles has noticeably decreased over the past year.
The rise of low-cost online retailers such as Temu and Shein has been identified as a contributing factor. These brands rely on fast fashion principles, producing inexpensive clothing quickly, often from short-lived materials. Janin Schneider, a professor of circular economy at Rhein-Main University, elaborated, “Fast fashion relies on cheap, short-lived materials that wear out faster and are less valuable for the secondhand market.” Additionally, many of these garments consist of mixed fabrics, complicating recycling efforts.
The financial viability of textile recyclers has been severely impacted. Texaid is now grappling with sales challenges, which has prompted reductions in the volumes it collects. Böschen notes that the market for secondhand textiles in Eastern Europe has collapsed due to the ongoing crisis in Ukraine, while African markets are saturated with low-priced offerings from Chinese vendors. Overall, prices for used textiles have plummeted, resulting in substantial operational losses. “At the moment, we’re losing money on every ton we collect and process,” Böschen stated, indicating that the industry is facing a significant downturn.
This situation is equally detrimental for non-profit organizations such as the DRK, which has seen earnings decline significantly. The spokesperson for the DRK explained, “We are missing revenues in the lower five-digit range.” Currently, the organization earns only three to five cents per kilogram of used clothing after covering the costs associated with managing the donation containers.
In navigating this complex landscape, Schneider suggests consumers consider making fewer purchases but focus on higher-quality items that are more durable and sustainable. “One hundred percent cotton, wool, or linen are more durable and sustainable,” she advised, noting that minor defects in clothing do not always warrant disposal; repairs by tailors can extend the lifespan of garments.
Source: Noah Wire Services
