London: A new book highlights Lisa Fonssagrives’s influence on fashion, showcasing her pioneering role in modelling and photography. From her groundbreaking Vogue cover to her collaborations with renowned artists, her legacy endures, inspiring contemporary styles and reshaping the perception of models in the fashion industry.
In the realm of vintage fashion, one notable figure who has left an indelible mark on both the industry and pop culture is Lisa Fonssagrives. Initially emerging onto the fashion scene in the late 1930s, Fonssagrives’s journey began far from the limelight of modelling. Born Lisa Birgitta Bernstone in Sweden in 1911, she initially pursued ballet and received training in sculpture, painting, and dance. With aspirations trained from a young age, her trajectory shifted dramatically upon her chance encounter with photographer Willy Maywald in 1936, a meeting that would ultimately set the stage for her storied career.
Fonssagrives made history in 1947, when Vogue featured her as part of a groundbreaking cover shoot with photographer Irving Penn. This moment marked a significant transition in fashion photography, as it focused on the model’s identity rather than merely the clothing. Penn’s photograph, titled The Twelve Most Photographed Models, showcased Fonssagrives, who was 36 at the time, alongside other female models. The perception of models was transformed forever, from being viewed as mere accessories to being recognised as individual contributors to the art of fashion. “I had never seen a fashion magazine,” Fonssagrives remarked in a 1985 interview, highlighting her unexpected path into modelling.
Her prowess and adaptability within the fashion world soon attracted the attention of luminaries such as Horst P. Horst, Man Ray, and Richard Avedon. With her ballet background, Fonssagrives brought a sense of grace that became her hallmark. She often utilised her physicality as a dancer to embody various personas, demonstrating a unique ability to convey emotion and artistry through fashion. “My training gave me terrific control,” she stated, underscoring the influence of her previous artistic education on her modelling style.
Penn and Fonssagrives not only collaborated professionally but also fell in love, marrying in 1950. The couple was known for producing some striking and memorable photographic moments together, where Fonssagrives showcased stunning couture designs, such as those of Cristóbal Balenciaga, often incorporating whimsical elements, like a chicken hat. Their partnership solidified her status as a fashion icon throughout the 1950s and 60s.
Fonssagrives’s influence on vintage fashion continues to resonate today, particularly as contemporary celebrities draw from past styles and aesthetics. Many modern wardrobes are imbued with retro flair, reflecting the enduring legacy of figures like Fonssagrives. As the fashion industry pivots toward vintage inspirations, her techniques and artistry remain central to understanding how past influences shape today’s style.
The publication Air Mail is reporting on the release of a new book titled Lisa Fonssagrives-Penn: Fashion Icon, which compiles an extensive collection of portraits of her by esteemed photographers. This timely compilation presents a compelling examination of her impact on fashion photography and modelling. Despite retiring in the 1960s, she remains a central figure in discussions of fashion history, embodying a refined persona within the first generation of celebrated models, alongside Dorian Leigh, Dovima, Suzy Parker, and Carmen Dell’Orefice. Her legacy is emblematic of the dynamic relationship between vintage fashion and modern celebrity style, with fashion historians acknowledging her role in shaping and inspiring the stylish figures of today.
Source: Noah Wire Services
