The Museum of Contemporary Art PAC provides a stunning setting for Tod’s fall collection, showcasing a blend of craftsmanship and artistic inspiration.
Milan’s Museum of Contemporary Art PAC served as a striking backdrop for Tod’s fall show, where a captivating installation by artist Nelly Agassi featured former French First Lady Carla Bruni. Bruni sat elegantly on a high pedestal, clad in a sculptural dress composed of recycled leather fragments, and holding a needle, symbolizing the craftsmanship that defines Tod’s. This visual not only stood out as an Instagram-worthy scene but also underscored the brand’s commitment to traditional artistry, a vision championed by owner Diego Della Valle.
Creative director Matteo Tamburini, who joined the brand at the end of 2023, has been integrating Della Valle’s ambitions into his designs with increasing assurance. The fall collection presented during this show further elaborated on this narrative, drawing inspiration from the museum’s significant history. Tamburini highlighted the transformation of the venue, which was built in the early 1950s and faced destruction in a terrorist attack in 1993, and how its restoration symbolizes resilience and rebirth. He noted, “It’s about the evolution while staying true to its heritage,” reflecting a similar trajectory for the brand itself.
Art has played a key role in shaping this collection, with Tamburini considering the works of renowned artists such as Carla Accardi, Alberto Burri, and Lucio Fontana. However, he emphasized that the artistic influences were not direct adaptations but rather an exploration of fabric treatment techniques. This concept was exemplified in a brushed alpaca coat featuring black-and-white swirls reminiscent of Accardi’s abstract artistry, while a sharp, tailored coat echoed Fontana’s technical precision. New styles also included a double-breasted mohair coat, updated with buttons positioned asymmetrically to modernize the classic silhouette.
Among the standout pieces was a cotton trench coat with a printed furry texture that created a trompe l’œil effect. Model Irina Shayk showcased a sophisticated belted leather trench, reflecting the expertise that Tod’s is known for. Additionally, the collection utilized high-quality materials, including Pashmy suede and napa leather in bombers as well as double-layer cashmere for oversized peacoats adorned with leather details.
Footwear innovations featured a reinterpretation of Tod’s signature gommino in napped python and a new brushed Chelsea boot version of the W.G. ankle boot, accompanied by several riding boots. The Di Bag Folio, available in both maxi and small variants, displayed patchwork inspired by the installation, while the Wave bag was designed to be lighter and softer for practical elegance.
As Della Valle stated before the show, “with artisanal intelligence we put men at the center of the stage, and machines will never replace our artisans,” a sentiment encapsulated in the carefully curated designs presented at the event. This exhibition of creativity and craftsmanship underscores the brand’s legacy while signaling an evolving artistic direction under Tamburini’s leadership.
Source: Noah Wire Services
