Tolu Coker’s Autumn/Winter 2025 collection, ‘ORI – Upon Reflection,’ combines expert tailoring with rich cultural allusions in an immersive presentation.
Tolu Coker showcased her Autumn/Winter 2025 collection, titled “ORI – Upon Reflection,” in an evocative presentation that emphasized expert tailoring and rich cultural narratives. The event took place in an intimate setting, designed to give attendees a sense of direct access to the creative process. Models walked the runway while carrying stalks of cotton, and a live band performed a smooth rendition of Billie Holiday’s poignant song, “Strange Fruit,” creating a reflective atmosphere.
Coker’s collection drew inspiration from the Yoruba concept of òrí, which represents spiritual intuition and destiny. The garments served not only as fashion statements but also as vessels for memory and culture, transforming clothing into a medium for storytelling. The designer paid homage to various Black spiritual practices, incorporating elements from the flowing white garments of Aladura churches and ceremonial attire linked to Candomblé, Lucumí, and Santería traditions. Additionally, the ritual dress of Black spiritual practices from regions such as Louisiana and Haiti influenced the designs.
The collection skillfully blended these cultural references with classic European tailoring, creating a dialogue between the sacred and the structured. Collaborations with renowned footwear designer Manolo Blahnik and milliner Virna Pasquinelli for sculpted hats added contemporary glamour to the historical influences within the garments.
The live musical accompaniment, led by Grammy-winning producer Gaetan Judd, enhanced the immersive experience for those in attendance. The presentation exemplified Coker’s innovative approach to fashion, inviting audiences to engage with her creative vision in a communal space.
Through meticulous craftsmanship and rich cultural narratives, Tolu Coker’s ORI – Upon Reflection transcended traditional fashion norms, offering an exploration of spirituality, identity, and heritage. This collection not only honors the past but also aims to shape the future, positioning fashion as a living archive that celebrates and preserves cultural legacies.
Source: Noah Wire Services
