London: Paul Tazewell’s innovative costume design for the film adaptation of ‘Wicked’ combines vintage aesthetics with modern influences. His work, reflecting a deep respect for fashion history, promises to redefine the visual narrative in film and leave a lasting impact on the industry.

The world of costume design is witnessing a significant transformation with the upcoming film adaptation of “Wicked,” thanks to the innovative work of celebrated designer Paul Tazewell. The highly anticipated movie musical, which is a reimagining of the beloved tale originally introduced in L. Frank Baum’s “The Wizard of Oz,” showcases a stunning array of vintage-inspired costumes that harmoniously blend modern aesthetics with iconic references from the past.

Paul Tazewell, who gained recognition for his award-winning work on “West Side Story,” brings a wealth of experience to “Wicked.” Notably, he made history by becoming the first Black male nominated for an Academy Award for Costume Design and is a strong contender to win the accolade with this project. Speaking of his experience, Tazewell, now 60, reflects, “I made the costumes in the middle of our dining room on my mother’s Singer sewing machine,” highlighting his longstanding passion for costume creation which began in his youth.

For the film “Wicked,” Tazewell faced the unique challenge of ensuring that the visual narrative of the lead characters, Elphaba (played by Cynthia Erivo) and Galinda (Ariana Grande), was cohesively tied together yet distinctly representative of their divergent personalities. Elphaba, characterised by her earthy and dark tones, contrasts sharply with the light, vibrant palette of Galinda. “I had to synthesise the demands of the movie script, the Baum book, the 1939 film, and the Broadway musicals,” Tazewell elaborates, while also balancing the directorial vision of Jon M. Chu.

To achieve this ambitious vision, Tazewell relocated to London for two years beginning in 2022, collaborating with skilled artisans who have previously contributed to other successful productions including “Bridgerton” and “The Crown.” He established a costume department comprising up to 150 talented individuals, allowing for a methodical approach to costume creation, akin to “Santa’s workshop.”

The resulting costumes serve as a vibrant homage to the rich tapestry of fashion history. Tazewell incorporated various iconic elements, drawing inspiration not just from the original “Wizard of Oz,” but also from fashion luminaries like Issey Miyake and Vivienne Westwood. He cleverly referenced the classic design cues, such as the striped socks of the Wicked Witch of the East, which reappear in a modernized form within the Shiz University uniforms.

Among Tazewell’s signature techniques is a focus on transformation, as evidenced through dynamic textiles and intricate garment construction. His designs feature a plethora of methods including folding, pleating, quilting, and embroidery, culminating in pieces that not only reflect the characters but also exhibit a kinetic energy. Tazewell mentioned, “I’ve always been fascinated with Japanese fans… There is a magical quality about going from one thing that is hidden to opening it up into a different shape.”

This attention to detail extends to the costumes worn by the lead characters in pivotal musical numbers, where their skirts flow and swirl reminiscent of turning pages in a book, merging storytelling and visual artistry. The skills necessary to bring these ensembles to life are a testament to Tazewell’s reverence for both fashion and theatricality. Custom gowns for Galinda, embellished with 20,000 beads, illustrate the time and craftsmanship that define his work, taking over 225 hours to hand-apply the beads alone.

As production wraps up on the first film, which will soon be joined by a second movie set to release in November, Tazewell’s creations promise to leave a lasting imprint on both the worlds of costume design and film. His commitment to blending vintage aesthetics with contemporary style speaks not only to his unique vision but also to the role that fashion historians and designers play in shaping the industry today. The result is a rich interconnection of past and present, ultimately celebrating the evolution of costume design in pop culture.

Source: Noah Wire Services