Drawing inspiration from the rebellious spirit of 1990s Japanese youth, UJOH’s new collection blends classic and contemporary styles to create unique fashion statements.
At the forefront of fashion innovation, UJOH has unveiled its Fall/Winter 2025 collection, drawing inspiration from the rebellious spirit of Japanese youth in the 1990s. Designers Aco and Mitsuru Nishizaki have skillfully reinterpreted the unwritten fashion codes of this transformative era, characterized by high school students who subtly challenged uniform regulations.
The collection features silhouettes that cleverly blend classic school uniform elements with contemporary designs. For instance, an oversized cardigan is artfully paired with an asymmetric skirt, subverting conventional styles. Additionally, leg warmers make a nostalgic nod to the era’s trend of loose socks, encapsulating the essence of a generation known for its creative defiance. This coming together of discipline and rebellion manifests in the clothing, transforming traditional school attire into an expression of individuality.
The thoughtful selection of fabrics complements the nostalgic narrative woven throughout the collection. Brushed flannel twill evokes memories of well-worn student jackets, combining softness and durability reflective of years gone by. Textured jacquard introduces a complex interplay of ribbons and hand-cut threads, mimicking the organic beauty reminiscent of fur. Moreover, the use of wax-treated wool gabardine further enriches the silhouettes, imparting both density and movement. Notably, the innovative quilting, enhanced with recycled polyamide fibers, reimagines the cozy warmth associated with winter school coats.
Styling choices reinforce the collection’s theme of personal reinvention amidst a uniformed backdrop. Oversized knitwear, intentionally designed several sizes too large, challenges the norms of standardized cuts. Modular plastrons add versatility, allowing wearers to either secure them tightly or leave them to flow freely, symbolizing the fluidity of identity. Pieces like alpaca sweaters, inspired by rugby polos, harmoniously pair with yak wool leg warmers, while transformative shirts feature button plackets that evolve into lavallières or delicate wrist ties, subtly portraying a sense of quiet rebellion.
Symbolism is intricately woven into the collection, reflecting its foundations in Japanese school culture. Noteworthy details include embroidered tulips, which reference the tradition of nurturing bulbs throughout the seasons—a quiet nod to the virtues of patience and growth. The introduction of a silver badge, featuring the UJOH logo for the first time, serves as a modern school crest, firmly positioning the brand within the rich nostalgia of the past.
The color palette further embodies the interplay between tradition and disruption, featuring deep, understated hues such as dark chocolate, taupe, bottle green, and navy blue. This rich base is contrasted with bold accents, including electric lime, sky blue, and beige, providing the collection with a dynamic flair. Ultimately, UJOH’s FW25 collection serves as a tribute to the past while embracing the evolving nature of self-expression in fashion.
Source: Noah Wire Services
