London: The UK footwear industry, which declined due to overseas production, is now flourishing as local brands respond to rising demand for domestically made products. Major manufacturers like New Balance and Hotter are expanding, while new entrants capture youthful consumers, reinforcing the sector’s sustainable future.
The UK footwear manufacturing industry has witnessed a notable decline since the mid-20th century, primarily due to brands relocating production overseas for cost efficiencies. However, a resurgence in demand for domestically made shoes has breathed new life into the sector, showcasing its enduring legacy and contemporary relevance.
As of now, the British Footwear Association (BFA) estimates there are approximately 30 large manufacturers and 80 smaller, specialist footwear businesses operating within the UK, employing around 4,000 individuals, predominantly in skilled positions like leather working and pattern design. Major established retailers, including New Balance and Hotter, are expanding their UK production lines, while emerging brands like Lanx and Goral are appealing to a new generation of consumers.
Richard Shetliffe, CEO of the BFA, highlights the flourishing interest in “Made in England” products, noting that these items are experiencing heightened demand in key international markets such as the Far East, Middle East, North America, and Europe. He has urged the government to provide tailored training programmes for footwear manufacturing and financial support for showcasing British-made products at international trade exhibitions.
Drapers has delved into how various brands across the UK are adapting to the evolving environment of footwear manufacturing. In Flimby, Cumbria, New Balance, which established part of its manufacturing presence in the UK in 1982, has ramped up production, employing 300 people on a four-day work week. Their factory is projected to increase its output from 382,000 pairs in 2023 to 405,000 in 2024. Dan Holtby, operations director at New Balance, conveyed that the made-in-UK collection, which ranges in retail prices from £190 to £300, has garnered global appeal, with a significant portion of production exported to markets including China and Japan.
Meanwhile, Hotter Shoes, once the largest shoemaker in the UK, has made a strategic move to bring production back home following a change in ownership. After reverting to its roots, the company plans to produce over one million pairs of made-in-UK shoes by 2025. CEO Mike Lester expressed that, “taking the business back to its roots” is vital as they increase production capacity while maintaining quality and comfort, with retail prices ranging from £49 for slip-on trainers to £139 for mid-calf boots.
Emerging brand Lanx, founded by Marco Vaghetti in 2017, aims to capture a younger clientele with its smart-casual shoes. The company, which operates predominantly online, operates two physical stores and has a varied price range from £165 for casual shoes to £380 for leather brogues. Vaghetti indicated a desire to bridge the gap between heritage brands and contemporary styles, actively engaging consumers through behind-the-scenes content on social media.
Established brands are also adapting their offerings to meet evolving consumer preferences. Joseph Cheaney, based in Northampton, noted the importance of craftsmanship. Joint managing director William Church shared insights into their refurbishment service, which allows worn shoes to be restored to original specifications. Retail prices for Cheaney’s shoes typically range from £195 to £725, supporting a growing demand for sustainable fashion.
Goral, a Sheffield-based business that relocated from Poland in 2005, focuses on high-quality trainers and has seen a surge in demand for UK-made products. With a diverse clientele, including an engagement with notable fashion designers, Goral’s innovative blake stitch method and commitment to artisanal craftsmanship supports its growing reputation.
As British brands continue to navigate the complexities of modern manufacturing and consumer demand, it is evident that both heritage and new companies play pivotal roles in reinforcing the presence of domestic shoemaking. This evolution not only pays homage to the rich historical context of the UK’s footwear industry but also establishes a sustainable and profitable future.
Source: Noah Wire Services
