Founded by three university friends, UNTITLAB® is a London-based brand known for its avant-garde, vegan footwear and accessories that celebrate queer identity and sustainability. The founders share their design philosophy, challenges, and vision for expanding accessibility while maintaining their niche creative ethos.
During their university years, Sans, Nicolas, and Zen formed a creative partnership that led to the founding of UNTITLAB®, a footwear and accessories brand known for its avant-garde designs and sustainable approach. Established in Shanghai and now based in London, UNTITLAB® has gained recognition for creating bold, niche products utilizing vegan and recycled materials. The team recently shared insights about their journey, design philosophy, and sustainability efforts in a conversation with “Fucking Young!” magazine.
Sans, the shoe designer, explained that UNTITLAB® began organically, with the trio—Sans handling shoe design, Nicolas overseeing images and art direction, and Zen managing marketing and business operations—coming together after meeting at university. Nicolas added that their initial goal was to create something daring and different within the fashion and creative industries, launching their endeavor with a focus on footwear.
Specializing exclusively in shoes and accessories, the founders noted that this targeted approach helps clarify their brand identity. Sans remarked, “Starting your brand, no matter the field, is always challenging. We were lucky because 2019 in Shanghai was a period of rapid growth in the market. However, focusing specifically on shoes made sense for the market we were entering.” Nicolas further highlighted that narrowing their focus makes it easier to concentrate on expressing their vision.
On the cultural significance of shoes, both Sans and Nicolas acknowledged their appeal: “Yes, they’re definitely sexy,” Sans commented, while Nicolas emphasized the importance of shoes in their visual concepts. Sans described his evolving criteria for what makes a good shoe: “When I was younger, I might have said something more extravagant and bold, but now, as I’ve grown, I think comfort and significance are what make a good shoe.” He also cited the brand Abra as a source of inspiration.
Although UNTITLAB® thrives as a niche brand, Sans expressed aspirations for wider recognition and accessibility. “We do want the brand to become more popular and wearable, with daily options for a broader audience. However, we also want to continue creating niche shoes and images. We plan to launch a custom shoe service for customers who want something special.” Nicolas acknowledged the challenges of expanding visibility, especially when posting queer content on social media platforms, noting experiences with algorithm restrictions.
The founders’ queerness is central to their creative ethos. Nicolas shared, “I think this is where I feel I belong, and it’s crucial to reflect on that. We’re always having conversations about what kind of people we’re designing the shoes for.” Sans added, “All three of us are queer, and we draw a lot of inspiration from our queer friends and how they express themselves through fashion. I always tell my friends that a specific shoe has their name on it.” Their visuals strive to convey freedom and openness, with Nicolas describing image creation as “the most intense part” of his work, enriched by collaborations with queer artists and community connections.
Addressing perceptions toward bold fashion aesthetics, Sans emphasized respect for diverse creative visions: “Fashion has a wide variety of styles and opinions, but for us, the most important thing is to respect other creatives and their vision.” Nicolas observed that conservatism and classism remain present in the fashion world but said, “It’s our mission to break certain boundaries, and I feel excited and alive doing so.”
Discussing the evolution of men’s fashion, Sans pointed out the growing embrace of gender-neutral footwear designs, calling it “an exciting shift.” Their Fall/Winter 2025 collection, unveiled in London, builds on themes of comfort, lightness, and freedom. Sans described the collection’s highlights: “We’ve updated the Swift Trek series with a new silhouette inspired by ballerinas and vintage boots, striking a balance between sportiness and sophistication. We’ve also collaborated with LUIS DE JAVIER to create sculptural high heels that explore the intersection of structure and strength.” Favourite pieces include the Swift Trek Ballerina and UN Malar heels from the collaboration.
Sustainability is a foundational element of UNTITLAB®’s design process. Sans elaborated, “All of our materials are VEGAN. We’ve developed some of our own innovative microfiber materials, and we also use bio-based suede, which is not only durable but of high quality.” He acknowledged challenges in sourcing fully sustainable materials, stating, “Vegan materials are relatively easy to find, but sustainable materials can be harder to come by. We can’t claim that all our materials and accessories are 100% sustainable, but we try our best.”
On the broader fashion industry’s movement toward sustainability, Sans observed progress alongside ongoing challenges: “More and more brands are focusing on sustainable materials, but balancing sustainability with financial viability remains a challenge. I don’t think the fashion industry as a whole is fully committed to sustainability yet.” Regarding the future, Sans expressed optimism tied to shifting consumer values: “I believe things will improve, especially as more customers become conscious of sustainability. People are increasingly interested in customization and knowing more about the products they buy, not just the looks.” Nicolas also noted the enduring interest and creativity he witnesses at fashion events despite global challenges.
Concluding their discussion, the founders offered encouragement for aspiring entrepreneurs. Sans advised, “I’d say it’s never too late. Just do it — stop overthinking and get started.” Nicolas added, “Trust your intuition and seize the opportunity.”
With their distinctive combination of innovative design, social consciousness, and sustainable practices, UNTITLAB® continues to carve out its unique space within the contemporary fashion landscape.
Source: Noah Wire Services
